It absolutely poured with rain on Friday and Saturday 25/26th
so we never did get to the old war time tunnels and were pretty much stuck on
the boat. PM Saturday the weather eased slightly and we were able to get the
tent stowed and the boat ready for departure on Sunday morning. Anita was a
little concerned that we would have trouble getting out of the very congested
berth and releasing all the lines but it was straightforward and we were
heading down the side of the runway by 1000 having cleared customs and
immigration at the marina. The marina were very good to us and charged us the
long term rate rather than the more expensive visitors rate so including
electricity and water we paid £20 per night which is pretty good considering
one of the other boats there had come from the Majorca where he had been
charges £180 per night! We decided to motor across the Gibraltar
straights rather than leaning the boat over under sail and risk Anita grabbing
hold of something with her bandaged hand. For once the Straights were benign
and we had a pleasant trip over with many dolphin and as we approached Morocco a pod
of whales which surfaced right alongside the boat. One of them was slightly
larger than Osprey and only 50 ft away from our starboard side – quite close
enough when you see their size that close! We ran into a large number of
racing yachts off Ceuta
and spend half an hour dodging them before arriving off Smir at about 1200
local time. We were all ready for a single handed berthing but Miguel’s
team were on the customs dock to help us and we were tied up and cleared customs
in very short order. They also came across to our berth on the other side of
the Marina to
help us tie up there. There are obliviously advantages in having a wounded
female on board as it attracts all sort of assistance that would not otherwise
have surfaced! We berthed alongside rather than stern into the quay as there
was space available and it makes it a lot easier to remove and fold the sails
and awning as well as packing up the boat for the winter. Once we were berthed
we got in contact with Mohamed taxi and arranged for him to pick us up at 1000
on Monday and take us for a trip to Tetuan then we made a start on packing up
the boat and had dinner ashore in the Café de Paris which has become our
favourite of the selection of café’s at the Marina. The marina itself was
starting to fill up with boats coming in from their summer cruise and preparing
for winter lay up. Smir is obviously a popular place and is deceptively empty
simply because the boats based there are out cruising during the season. Mohammed
workshop confirmed that they would lift us out on Friday and we went through
the list of work for them to do during the winter. This consists mostly of
cleaning off the hull, re-painting our blue line at the waterline and then
applying a coat of ablative.
Mohammed Taxi collected us on schedule Monday morning and we
spent a great day in Tetuan going around the Old Medina (Old Town).
Despite our best endeavours we ended up with a guide attached to us which was
probably fortunate as the place is an absolute rabbit warren – very narrow
– 2 metre wide alleyway’s which are crammed with traders. We
visited a number of traders which the guide had arrangements with including an
outlet for a local carpet co-operative where we were given Moroccan tea and a
show of all their carpets and other products. Anita purchased a throw over for
one of our beds at Woodlands after half and hour of negotiating –
haggling! The Medina
is fascinating to walk around and has hardly changed in 700 years – it really
is amazing that they still live in such cramped conditions. Once we left the Medina we were looking
for a café where we could sit and have a drink but it quickly became apparent that
they were men only so we gave up that idea and headed back to meet Mohamed
taxi. We were back at the boat late afternoon and spent a quiet evening with
Anita starting to pack up her bags ready for the trip to the airport in the
morning.
On Tuesday morning Anita provided some one handed help to
John in getting the sails off the boat onto the quay and folding the up. We decided
to leave them on the wharf for as long as possible as otherwise they would be
in Johns’ way whilst he packed up the boat. Mohammed was on time as usual
and by 1215 Anita was on her way to the airport in Tangiers for a 1540 flight
to London where
Kuki was schedule to pick her up at Gatwick. John spent Wednesday and Thursday giving
the machinery a basic service, checking zincs and cleaning intakes as well as
stripping all the external equipment off the boat ready for the lift out in
Friday. The move from our berth to the lift out facility proved to be interesting
as several boats had berthed stern to on either side of us in the interim.
Without the wounded Indian on board to attract support, assistance was in short
supply so John was lucky that there was an off the berth wind to assist and was
able to let the wind blow the boat off the quay before turning and heading for
the lift out berth. The operators at the lift out berth proved to be very
skilled and there was no trouble either getting alongside or positioning the
straps for the lift and we were out and in our storage position in a couple of
hours. We then had to sit in the straps overnight as the yard did not have the
correct size of boat stands available and they had to be assembled and painted
before they could be used. The hull was pressure washed and looked in great
condition with a minimum of growth on the Micron ablative. The prop had more
growth as it has no anti fouling but it was acid washed and shining again in
short order. John finished closing up the boat by 1800 and moved into the
Sofitel for the night leaving a minimum to be finished in the morning before
heading for Tangiers. The hotel was good but nothing special considering its
normal rate was approaching 200 euros a night. We had negotiated a much reduced
rate. John fell asleep before he could contemplate dinner at the hotel but
breakfast the following morning was pretty good. A couple of hours finalising
the boat on Saturday morning saw everything packed away and tidy and the boat
now on its new stands and out of the crane slings. She looked very bare having
been stripped down completely on deck. We still have an annoying rust stain
which keeps appearing on the starboard bow. It runs down from the pulpit and we
have yet to find the source. Fortunately it cleans up pretty easily and the only
solution seems to be to remove the pulpit when we next have the mast out which
is no small job!
Mohammed Taxi was his usual prompt self and collected John
at 1200. We were in Tangiers for 1400 so this time there was plenty of time to
relax before the Royal Air Morocco
flight to Gatwick. We have come to appreciate this airline – it is no
frills but very well equipped and efficient with good comfortable seat spacing.
Absolutely nothing to complain about and unlike their British and European
counterparts there are no hidden or supplementary charges. Tangiers airport is
also simple and efficient which is more than can be said for Gatwick where we
have learnt to expect a wait nearly as long as the flight for the bags to
arrive in the hall. Oh well a fellow traveller commented – it is a Saturday
and in England
you can’t expect all the staff to some to work on the weekend.
We have used Osprey a huge amount over the past 24 months
and have decided that we will leave her “parked” in Smir until March.
John will go down a couple of times to do some work and we are looking at the
feasibility of driving down in January although initially it looks as though the
ferries to Santander
do not work at that time of the year. The yard in Smir are quit happy for owners
to work on their boats whilst in storage which is a pleasant change and we may
well spend a couple of weeks there in the new year catching up on the varnish
as well as doing a major service. Although we have made the decision to explore
the Mediterranean next we are going to miss the Caribbean and Antigua
as well as the ability to get out of the European winter whenever we wanted.