16:59N 61:46W Antigua and Sunshine at Last

The Snark on The ARC
Ben Little
Sun 17 Apr 2011 11:46
Hi there,
 
We are a bit behind on blog entries so here is our catch up.  Having left Guadeloupe we arrived at a finally fairly sunny Antigua anchoring in English Harbour packed with boats ahead of Antigua Yacht Week.  In fact we arrived instead at the start of the Classic Mega Yacht Regatta, which was quite impressive with the J Classes and other mega yachts going through their paces.  You would need a power boat to follow them they are a quite an impressive set with speed to match. 
 
Back tracking, on our way out of Guadeloupe we caught our first fish, I am happy now that we have a set up that works well and our first victim was a Spanish Mackerel.  Unfortunately we did not venture to eat it since we are now given to understand that many fish around Guadeloupe have fallen foul of a toxin found in Coral called Ciguatera which some fish eat or absorb and can be passed on to other predatory fish.  Some species are worse than others, the Spanish Mackerel in question is debatable so given the location (the worst possible place) we decided to err on the side of caution.  Clearly we need to do some more research on this before eating our fill of the local fishy fare!!.
 
On Friday we spent the day in Antigua, we breakfasted in English Harbour, following an interminable delay in customs.  Checking in and out in the Caribbean is never much fun but in English Harbour they seem to have made a dance of it.  There were three windows 5 forms (I think) and each window had to be visited several times.  The Customs official seemed to take delight in sending you away to another window then vanishing for 15 minutes or so before popping back up again for a fleeting moment.  It was also the most expensive customs process I have encountered so far.  The day however cannot be spoiled by this as it is our first proper day of full on sunshine.  We upped anchor and motored into the wind around to Green Island and N onesuch Bay, very pretty and reminiscent of the Tobago Keys though without the teaming wildlife.  A lovely lunch spot for our prawn salad (sadly Mackerel was off the menu).
 
Back to English Harbour again for the night with an intended early start in the morning to take us to St Kitts, highly recommended by Cleo from her Caribbean cruise (in a slightly bigger boat).  
 
Another high point for English Harbour was the restaurants there.  While rather expensive the food was excellent.  On Thursday night we dined at Hamilton's in one of the historic buildings in Nelsons Dockyard and had Tatar of Tuna followed by seafood platter which included Lobster and crab cake.  Milo tucked in to his lobster and chips special with delight.  On Friday we went to Catherine's, a fine French restaurant where we variously enjoyed lobster salad, Seared Foes Gras, Tornados Rossini, and Mahi Mahi. A delightful evening though slightly marred by the return of the rain, this time huger thunder shower rather than the constant drizzle.  We got lucky though as the Bimini held (just) under the weight of water and while the anchor dragged we did manage to avoid collision with other boats in a packed harbour (the holding is dreadful)
 
We were up early the next morning for the trip to St Kitts (see next entry)  leaving at 05:20 am.
  
 
 
Ben and the Crew of The Snark
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