19:44N 39:25W 1st December 2009 Dances with Whales and Wales

The Snark on The ARC
Ben Little
Tue 1 Dec 2009 03:22
Hi folks,
 
It has been a day of ups and downs both metaphorically and literally.  I think today and tonight has been the roughest seas we have experience so far on the ARC, it has been hard work steering and hard work doing anything on board comfortably, sleep included.  Dugald and Chris are saying they are used to the movement of the ship and it helps sleep, for me loud noises and lots of movement usually means I have to get up to change to sail set or otherwise check the boat.  Sometimes needlessly but it is very easy to get in a mess in the dark when you don't know the boat.  The Guys are doing great and it is not them waking me up it is my subconscious mind in worry mode.
 
Today was a special day for us in more ways that one.  As you know it was our half way mark and we did celebrate with a special half way meal accompanied by a bottle of wine (more on that later).  It is a strange and somewhat comforting feeling that we are more than half way across the ocean, we have a route to follow and we know how far it is to get there if not how long.  Anyway getting to the highlight of the day, instead of Dolphins we had Whales playing with our boat and surfing in the waves beside us.  They were Minky Whales, we were able to ID them from a sheet of paper provided by the world cruising club (very thoughtful) we god a good look at the head and mouth and dorsal fin and the size was about right.  We started the engine as I have been told to do, this is to make sure that large whales, territorial Bulls, understand that you are not a whale and therefore no threat to their territory and females.   It quickly became clear that these were too small to be a real danger to the boat (about 7-8 metres long) and that they were just here to play.  The whales were surfing in the large swell you could see them in the wave crests and then they would swim along the boat and under the prow.  The the guys think it was a pair of whales but they moved around a lot for that to be the case so maybe a few more.  Anyone who has time Google up their behaviour.  It was much harder to get a picture of the whales but we managed some video in which you can just about see them and a photo of one of them surfacing for air, the latter I will send in as a separate message to the blog once I have shrunk the image size.  less than impressive photography but evidence nevertheless.  So our encounters with nature continue, and we have yet to recourse to watching Dugald's blue planet videos.  What will tomorrow bring?  Dugald declined the option of a mid Atlantic swim with our aquatic friends, regrettably it would have been far too dangerous due to the large surf and high winds.
 
On the subject of weather, despite the mention of rough seas, the wind and weather is in our favour and is blowing us quickly in the right direction.  We could go quicker but tonight we are tired and have reduced sail as warned by our Norwegian neighbours of possible squall activity up toe 35 knots in the night.  So far there is no evidence of this but we do have up to 28 knots blowing tonight so I have double reefed the main and we have no genoa out.  With a extra crew or 2 we could really go for it and bomb along at 9 or 10 Knots consistently but we are settling for our 7.5 or 8 and a quieter night even if limited sleep for me.  There is a consistent wind forecast for the next few days which will chase us to St Lucia without going further south, after that folks think we may get calmer weather.  I was chatting with a nearby skipper on the radio, who was still enthusiastic about heading further south for more wind on the recommendation of his weather router (a chap called Chris Tibbs who I have met)  I said to him well I have 25 knots right now if they have more wind down there they can keep it.  I think that this route we are on will give is a good wind angle for the prevailing easterlies and therefore give us better boat speed even if the wind drops. So half way in distance and also half way in time more of less I think.  So Julie (for those of you unfamiliar Julie has established herself as the good Witch of the East Midlands, able to command the winds through prayer) I'm pretty sure you are reading this, we would like 15-20 knots from the East or East South East (not fussy South East at a pinch) for the next 7 days along a line from where we are on the map to St Lucia.  After that we will hopefully have arrived.  If your powers can smooth out the seas some that would be even better, at least maybe we can have waves from only one direction at a time
 
I said Dances with Whales and Wales, well that is because today was a welsh themed day on the Ipod.  We started with tom Jones and then we got manic street preachers etc etc.  Dugald is the DJ and doing a great job, but we had to threaten a salty bath for his Iphone when he started on Scottish country dance music for his Scottish themed day (actually themed morning we ran out).  We have also had US day for Thanksgiving and then a Canada day and an Irish day, you get the picture.  Maybe it is brit pop tomorrow?
 
On our midway meal,  we put it off at lunch time as the sea was really rough and no one felt like anything complicated,  and I did not feel like cooking it in a pitching Galley.  I am not sure if it got any better but we decided in the evening to go ahead,  I'm pretty sure I went through the menu on a previous edition, so quickly fois followed by duck.  The Fois was OK though we were limited by accompaniments,  however I would not choose to cook confit de canard again at sea due to hive amounts of duck fat that co with it,  We managed to dispose of the first pan full of fat before the second went flying.  Luckily I was wearing my apron and that took the brunt of it and I was able to quickly get to the deck shower and wash off the rest. After the mess and clean up it did taste great with crushed new potatoes with garlic butter, and still fresh broccoli. We were so full that we did not get to dessert, perhaps for breakfast.  So the meal was great but the getting there was a bit of a stress and strain.
 
We are trying to find out what is wrong with the generator, the engineer and panda HQ in Germany suggests maybe a battery problem, sods law the battery (new) in my multimeter is dead so we cant easily tell.  To solve this we are thinking of an RV with the Norwegians who are close by in the morning to get a spare battery for the multimeter.  Alternatively we may be able to blue peter a power source using AA batteries and Duck tape (sorry I don't carry sticky back plastic on board), which will save us time meeting up. Lets see how we feel in the morning.
 
To end on a more up beat note I am of to get the camera and see if I can get a good whale photo for you.
 
Bye for now, hope to hear from you soon.
 
Ben