38:37.465N 20:40.979E Sivota

The Snark on The ARC
Ben Little
Fri 14 Aug 2009 15:36
Sorry for those who have logged in to the blog and found it sadly lacking in the past week.
 
We have been busy here having fun in the sun and sea and there was not really any access to internet in Zakynthos (Zante) in the days we spent down there.  Basically the route we took was from last update (Nidri 7th August) we moved a short hop to Meganisi (via Skorpios of O'Nassis fame) and stayed at Little Vathi.  For a nice change we had shore power and no charges so we were able to enjoy mozzie free air-conditioned comforts and a great nights sleep.  Sadly the stay was slightly marred by our less than friendly guests to our port side who despite our efforts to help them with warps came in far too fast and bust our fenders and then refused to pay for a replacement.
 
The next day took us to Fiskardo, a port we remembered from our prior journeys in the Ionian almost 10 years ago.  It is still as beautiful as before though even more crowded (we are I suppose at the very peak of high season).  I believe we have now mastered the art of lines ashore.  After watching those with ample crew risking their tenders on the razor sharp rocks we found the best method is me diving in and swimming ashore (with shoes on protecting against said rocks and urchins).
 
The 9th took us to Gorgotas bay and Agia Efimia (of Captain Correli's Mandolin fame).  the advertised jetty is now just some rusty ironwork and I think that Nicholas Cage and Penelope Cruz would do themselves and injury if they went on it now.  However a lap of the bay in the crystal clear waters was a lovely lunch stop swim and the port of Efimia again had the convenience of water and electric.  However the downside of midnight karaoke including hits such as who let the dogs out? and various Abba hits did make us wonder whether a swing at anchor off the shore may have been better after all.
 
The 10th we finally made it to Zakynthos.  There are fewer places to stay over in Zakynthos, particularly on the famously cliffy and rocky west coast (of Wreck Beach fame).  So we stayed over in a place called Ag Nikolaos Bay, eventually side to the quay wall in quite high winds.  After 4 hours at anchor just outside the harbour our seemingly weed ridden anchor finally gave out in a 25 knot gust, despite have a good deal of our newly purchased 30m of additional chain.  However before the dramatics it was a lovely swimming location and we managed a boat trip to the blue grotto caves in a local boat.  We discovered that you can in fact anchor off it (not according to the pilot guide) and did so the next day for a brunch.
 
We then headed out along a spectacular coastline looking for the Wreck beach.  There are a large number of beautiful beaches and cliffs along the coast of which the wreck is certainly among the best but it is chock full of tourists and huge tour boats coming in and out all the time.  We anchored off a beach nearby on a very rocky bottom (bit scary) and swam ashore.  Quite a long way for the boys but they are getting to be great swimmers these days.  We overnighted in a place called Vromi Bay just south of there.  Another opportunity for lines ashore and we were again grateful of the extra chain we added in Nidri as the water was much deeper than suggested in the pilot book.
 
After that we headed north along the west coast of Zakynthos and then Kefalonia, and after scouting a few possible anchorages ended up back in Fiskardo (a rather long sail more than 50Nm) even more crowded than before with some really huge boats partying in town that night.  last night we stayed in Kioni Bay, very lovely again and a must for those visiting the area, however if you go get there early.  We arrived at 2:30 but got the last space within the harbour.  There are alternatives but all involve very long shore lines and/or deep anchorages, free parking but no services included.  Our water maker, despite the fact that we cant run it will the engine and it rather kills the batteries, has been put to very good use.  After one week we were only down one tank (100 out of 400 liters down), it bodes well for the ARC but I will need a lift out for an extra through hull when I get back into Corfu.
 
From Kioni back to Sivota tonight and the only costly mooring so far.  We wanted the Aircon and water tonight so we moored up on a friendly looking pontoon but the 60 euro charge was a surprise.  At least we also can find some internet connection ashore.
 
So I hope this brings the blog up to date somewhat, though I missed out on some pins in the map (I assumed I could do retrospectively but seems not).
 
Next will be to retrace our steps back to Corfu.  Parga and Paxos were beautiful so we are keen to close our cruise with a repeat visit. 
 
bye for now
 
Attached are some photos
 
My Cabin Girl
The boys in the water (where they spend most of the day)
Me at Cocktail hour
Coleen and me at Dinner
Dinner overlooking the bay at Parga, the boat is in the background
Blue Grotto caves
Me on the Wreck beach
The Snark at the wreck beach (or next door)
and the Wreck on the beach
wall to wall parking at Fiskardo
more cocktails, in Kioni
 
 

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