Another struck off the bucket list

MALARKEY
Jo & Trevor Bush
Mon 7 May 2012 03:14
It was a life-times ambition for both of us to dive with dolphins in the wild.
 
You see trained dolphins in waterworld freak shows playing ball and doing tricks for the crowd. But we wanted to see them in the wild in true David Attenborough style just like in 'The Blue Planet'. But after nearly 90 dives since taking our Open Water PADI course in Tobago, we had not seen the mearest glimpse of one.
 
So this clearly is not an easy challenge. Despite their well documented intelligence, you cant just call them up on your mobile phone and request a personal appearance. It is only with a large measure of luck and patience you end up seeing these fabulous creatures in the wild. But cripes, is it worth the wait.
 
We had seen dolphins playing in the surf in the pass on a couple of occasions when we had been stretching our legs along the beaches here at Rangiroa. And when we asked the dive shop folk about this, they confirmed that there is a good chance of seeing them when the tide from the lagoon is outgoing. During the strong outgoing tide, (about 5/6 knts), where it meets the ocean current at the entrance of the pass into the lagoon, there are quite large over-falls. These over-falls are a bit scary when negotiating in a yacht during entry or exit of the lagoon but for a dolphin, they are an exciting watery playground. 
 
Right, so lets go diving with the dolphins then..............Only one problem with that. Drifting through the pass on an outgoing tide is so dangerous it is not allowed....D'oh. But what we could do was to wait outside the pass where the current was not so strong and hopefully we would catch some stragglers swimming by. Sounded like a plan. So we togged-up with scuba gear and were dropped off after a wild dinghy ride, right outside the pass.
 
It is both kind of eerie and wonderful staring out into the blue with 20 meters of water above you and goodness knows how much beneath.  But it didn't take more than 10 minutes before a family of 3 dolphins came to say hi. It was just like meeting the 3 bears. There was Daddy dolphin, Mummy dolphin and Baby dolphin. Daddy dolphin checked us out first and came right up to Katy, our dive leader from YAKA Dive, face to face. Katy denies that he said to her in Dolpinish language 'who's been sleeping on my seabed'. But he obviously considered us harmless because Mummy & Baby dolphin appeared on the scene only seconds later. Daddy was showing off by dive bombing around at great speed while Mummy & Baby went ballistic together. They swam from beneath us at great speed, belly to belly, dead vertically to the surface just in front of us, leaving only a trail of bubbles from their smiley faces. They then breached the surface, probably did some ariel acrobatics and we saw them re-enter and then disappear back into the blue. It was a truly mesmerizing encounter but all too brief.