Venezuela, Isla Margarita. 10:57.0N 63:49.8W

MALARKEY
Jo & Trevor Bush
Wed 11 Jul 2007 22:01
The boats botty was clean and we had bought some provisions for our trip south, so we figured we were ready to go. The only things we hadn't done was to actually decide when to go and to say goodbye to our friends in Prickly Bay. Funny how one thing leads to another....... We went to happy hour on Friday evening which is a bit of a ritual among cruisers, - almost like going to church on Sunday. Everyone would be there and it would be the best venue to say goodbye. We were there early and shock horror, the price of beer had been put up by over 50%!!! Happy hour was no longer happy. That was it, the decision was made for us. It was time to go. In fact we were so flabbergasted we decided to leave there & then. We spent our last EC Dollars on a take away pizza for the trip and bought everyone a drink till the money ran out, which actually didn't take long at all. So that was it, off to Venezuela... here we come.
 
By the time we got back to the boat, lifted the dinghy and sorted ourselves out, it was nearly dark. But that was ok, Prickly Bay was easy to navigate even in total darkness and we figured that our passage plan of about 12 hours (85 miles) to the islands of Los Testigos would land us there at about dawn. What we didn't allow for however, was the huge push from the tide and our improved boat speed due to the boats new clean botty. Consequently we got there far too early even with just a reefed genoa and so we decided to press on to Isla Margarita instead. That proved to be a good move. A tropical wave was due to come through on Sat night and Los Testigos is a bit desolate & exposed for shitty weather. Other cruisers already anchored in Los Testigos seemed to agree and left early that morning and eventually joined us in Margarita.
 
First impressions of Margarita were not promising. >From a distance it looked like a typical southern Spanish coastal resort, the very type of place we were trying to keep away from.
 
 
But what a difference it makes when you got some buddies to show you the local delights. Vicki & Roger (El Vagabond) have been here for about a week and have gone through the pain of sussing everything out. Things are a little different here in Venezuela. The checking in procedure in arduous to say the least and there is the question of the local currency. Bolivar's would appear to be considered worthless outside of Venezuela. So there is a thriving black market trading in US Dollar to Bolivar's and vice versa. The rate seems to depend on how much the Venezuelan President Chavez slag's America during his Sunday evening tele broadcast. If America gets a right bashing, then on Monday morning you might get upto 4000 B's per US$ but during the week that will moderate to 3500. Oh and by the way, the legal exchange rate is only 2140 B's to the US$ which speaks volumes me thinks. And when it comes to checking in, there is a great bloke called Juan, who runs a 'marina', or some would call it a dinghy pontoon, and he deals with the officials for you, for a small fee of course. So you can see that some useful & friendly advice can save you both time and money in this strange yet exotic country.
 
Once you get past your initial first impressions, you really start to warm to the place. The people that we have met so far seem genuinely friendly and welcoming. They certainly are very pleased to see you in their restaurants are bars!! Food & drink here is dangerously cheap. We find it difficult to spend more than £4 per couple in an afternoons drinking session. One lunch time we ate gorgeous seafood and drank wine, beer & rum all afternoon and came back to the boat drunk as skunks with change from a tenner.
 
 
This is an example of what will happen to you if you take advantage and indulge to heavily in the cheap delights on offer. ( Jo will kill me when she finds out I took this picture and used it on this blog)
 
Continuing on the same theme, we bought some fuel recently. A small converted fishing boat holding large poly diesel tanks sold us 400 Lts of diesel for less than £15 (that is less than 4 pence per litre). You can get it even cheaper if you take the trouble to go to the station. There you can buy it at 1 pence per litre (which, by the way, is cheaper than the bottled water). I say three cheers for President Chavez and long may he slag off America!!