Fast track to Oz

MALARKEY
Jo & Trevor Bush
Mon 12 Nov 2012 05:23
24:45S 152:23E (Bundaberg Port Marina)
 
We had two great cruising destinations ahead of us before getting to Oz, Vanuatu and New Caledonia. But we had left it too late to give either of these great spots justice.
 
Vanuatu is a largish chain of islands roughly running South to North and we chose Aneityum, the most southerly of the group.
 
 
Another shell to the collection                                 Mystery.....what happened to all the people?
 
This place was gorgeous. It had everything you would expect from a Pacific Island. Deserted white sandy beaches, palm trees, azure blue waters, a calm and protected anchorage and a huge cannibal cooking pot for visitors......gulp. Cannibalism was common place amongst these primitive people up to the mid 1960's. It was regarded as good manners to offer a human arm or leg to the chief of the next village. We regard ourselves as quite fortunate to leave with all parts accounted for.
 
 
Mystery solved. Enough to feed the whole village                        And a little fishy for the pot....wahoo! 
         
The diving and snorkeling was also excellent here.
 
  
Our favourite...the frog fish                                    Not a Melbourne Cup entry                                                   Leopard & blacktip shark
 
We wished we could have checked out the active volcano on Tanna and the wacky 'Cargo Cult' who worship John Frum & Prince Phillip. Can you imagine worshiping Prince Philip....not even the queen does that. Or maybe get to meet the shy pigmy race in the jungle of the Torres & Banks Islands in the north.......next time maybe. But time was marching on so off to the French colony of New Caledonia.
 
It was important to arrive at the dreaded Havana Pass at the eastern end of New Cal at slack water and with preferably fair conditions. We have heard of boats coming to grief here and indeed the wreck of a Japanese trawler on the reef serves as a perfect reminder to all yachtsmen who dare to enter. Well, thanks to our Aussie cruising pal Cheryl (S/Y Stolen Kiss), who has a good eye for the weather, and gave us the nod for a good time to leave Aneityum. With good fortune or by design, we arrived in perfect conditions. But luck or no, we did discover on arriving in Noumea the capital, that a well found Kiwi boat was knocked down & broached twice coming through the same pass only the day before. So I say, 'ta very much Cheryl, and may the force stay with you'.
 
The lagoon off of Noumea is huge. There is loads of cruising speckled with perfectly sheltered anchorages. With some of the hills covered with fir trees, it was like cruising Scotland in the sunshine with French culture. Doesn't sound too bad.....and it wasn't, in fact it was great. The town offered most things including cinemas, museums, aquariums and of course, fully stocked supermarkets, restaurants and bars.
 
 
'Woody'. Impressive local culture.
 
 And if you wanted to get away from it all, then there were hundreds of nice anchorages to chill out in only a short sail away. 
 
Nice spot
 
We sampled a few nice spots but as with Vanuatu, we were hot to trot and left after only 2 weeks and headed out for our last leg to Oz.
 
Jo checking spinnaker trim
 
What a trip. A nice breeze in lovely wall to wall sunshine on long Pacific swells. At last, the sailing we were hoping for and we arrived in Bundaberg, Queensland in good time. Typical that it should come at the end but it was nice to end on a high.