Castelsardo 40:54.79N 08:42.12E

Red Skies
David Alexander
Thu 3 Jul 2014 21:11
Saturday 28 June  Porto Cervo

Whilst in this part of the world we had to visit the Costa Smeralda and, in particular, Porto Cervo, constructed by the Aga Khan in the 1960’s. We paid just a fleeting visit as the prices for moorings are eye-watering. However, we were able to gaup at the fabulous villas and super-yachts.

This is a tiny example of the floating palaces on show!

We ended up the day in an anchorage (no charge!) at Cala de Mucchi Bianchi, which is a wonderfully scenic location and very sheltered from everything other than a Westerly wind.

The First Mate taking a well-earned reviver.

Included to show that the skipper was present

Sunday 29th June    Cannigione
As the forecast was for a strong Westerly we moved to a marina in Cannigione where we stayed for 2 nights. This was our most expensive stay so far on this trip at 55€ a night, with expensive restaurants to boot. It did , however, enable us to replace an empty gas bottle.

Tuesday 1st July  Capo Testa

Having entered the high season, we started our journey back towards Fertilia, where we will leave Red Skies for 6 weeks while we return to Hythe. We spent the first night sheltering behind a large rocky outcrop at Capo Testa and where, unfortunately, we met our first jelly fish on this year’s trip. However, that didn’t stop the skipper donning mask and snorkel to check the anchor before turning in for the night.

Wednesday 2nd July  Castelsardo

The forecast was for NE Force 2/3 and so it was when we set off from Capo Testa. As it was due to remain gentle we decided to fly the cruising chute for the first time this year and made decent progress. With the wind behind us we realised after an hour or so that the wind strength was increasing and with it the swell. Just at the point when the skipper went forward to furl the chute,an enormous gust hit us and the boat broached. Without dwelling on all the mishaps that followed, we ended up recovering the unfurled sail, but with a mighty rip in it that should keep a sailmaker’s family happy for some time.
The dog-leg entrance to Castelsardo is virtually impossible to see until one is through it. The pilot book said that with strong winds from the North the entrance is very difficult as the sea builds up there and this added to our anxiety as by this time we were experiencing two and a half metre waves.

Castelsardo as we approached (it was rougher than it looks)

The dog-leg entrance after the swell had died down. The photo doesn’t capture how close to the rocky shore one needs to get to enter.

View of Castelsardo from the marina. The houses shown on this photo are a later addition - the old town is within the walled city on top of the rock.

Castelsardo is an interesting fortress town dating back to 1102 AD. Compared with many others of similar ilk, it has remained relatively uncommercialised, for example the entrance to the castle and museum, after a precipitously steep climb, was only 2€ a head. The area is famed for its wicker basket work and the museum featured many fine and historic examples of their skill.


Just one of the many examples on display.