Almerimar - 36:41:83N 2:47:42W
Red Skies
David Alexander
Mon 7 Sep 2009 21:21
On Thursday, we caught a local bus in Gibraltar to
take us to the Moorish Castle from where we walked up to the entrance to the
World War II tunnels. We were lucky - a cruise ship party
was expected later that morning but we were
escorted around on our own by a delightful ex-army guide, named 'Smudge'. What
had been achieved in that period was truly breathtaking and we were very
impressed with the fortitude of those who were part of the Rock at that
time.
The Union Flag flying over the Moorish Castle in
Gibraltar
On Friday 4th September, the Levanter had subsided
and we left Gibraltar to catch the tide around Europa Point. On heading out we
encountered a recovery ship and tug, stationed off Europa Point, with a one mile
exclusiopn zone around them, which meant going further out into the Strait than
we had intended. The wind, however, was coming from the South West so, although
over 20 knots, we were able to sail briskly along the South Spanish
coast.
Leaving Gibraltar behind as we head East along the
Spanish coast
Unfortunately, the wind did not continue and we
found that we had to motor again to keep a reaonable average speed. We turned
our heads away from the flesh-pots of Marbella town and instead sought refuge in
the old fisherman's port that had been turned into the Marina de Bajadilla on
the outskirts of Marbella. This turned out to be a quiet and comfortable night's
stay, albeit after a difficult interlude from following the pilot book and
tying up to the fuel berth, only to find that we were well and truly fenced off
from the marina and the fuel berth was only opened on 2 afternoons a week. A
telephone call soon had us reporting in the correct place and we were seen into
our berth by a helpful marineiro. The office was closed but the staff could not
have been more helpful in sorting out the documentation and making arrangements
so that we could leave at first light and before the office opened the following
day.
On Saturday, we motored East against Easterlies
varying between Force 1 and 4 and arrived at a delightful anchorage at La
Herradura. Despite a number of jelly fish being spotted by Alison on the way in,
David decided that this was the ideal place to inspect the anodes and to give a
wash and brush-up to the water-line. Towards sunset, the motor boats that had
anchored there during the day departed leaving just 3 yachts, Red Skies being
one of them. Out of the distance emerged what Alison descibed as being a
'stealth cruiser' and as it approached closer it made its intensions clear that
its crew intended to board us. It transpired that it was a Spanish customs boat
and, despite the intimidating nature of their boat and the kit they carried,
they were cordial in carrying out their checks of our paperwork. A
humorous interchange occurred when one of them noted that Alison had been
born in Nottingham and wanted to know if she knew Robin Hood. When they left it
was dark and they departed without any navigational lights showing -
however, the deep throaty roar of their engines would have alerted anyone within
a 10 mile radius of their presence. Before they left they gave us two bits
of advice: first avoid the jelly-fish, especially the small ones prevalent there
because they are particularly dangerous, and second the Levanter was due to blow
again seriously from tomorrow and going Eastwards under sail was going to be
diifficult. They also gave us a form to show any other customs officials
should we be boarded again.
The anchorage at La Herradura
On Sunday, 6th September, we left at first light to
make as much distance as we could before the Levanter set in. When we emerged
from the bay, we appreciated how sheltered we had been, despite the swell we had
experinced through the night. After 9 hours of motoring into a strengthening
Easterlie, we finally arrived at Almerimar with winds over the deck in excess of
30 knots and viciously steep waves rediculously close together. We were thankful
the passage was almost complete but there was no shelter from the wind and waves
until we actually went behind the breakwater to the marina. What then greeted us
was a dredger stretched completely across the access channel. After some hand
gesticulations, the dredger moved backwards a few feet and we were ushered to
pass by him within inches, still with significant wind but thankfully without
the waves.
The dredger that blocked our path when we entered
the marina channel
When we were in the marina, the wind
was still severe and we were sent via handsignals to the far end of the marina
complex, where the wind came gusting around the buildings and from a different
direction. Eventually we tied up to the quay, and tightened the lazy line
offered by the marineiro, but this still left us at quite an oblique angle. The
marineiro was unfazded by this and on looking around we could see quite a number
of other boats at similar attitudes.
Almerimar Marina is of substantial size and has a
significant element of housing accommodation within it. Constructed in the late
70s it is beginning to show its age. However, with the Levanter expected to blow
up to 28 knots for the next 4 days we shall be here for a while.
Almerimar Marina
Another view of the marina, giving an indication of
its lack of shelter from the Easterlies
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