A McVerde
Rhapsode
Thu 11 Nov 2010 19:08
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15 17 N 23 45 W
We decided to move on and are now at another
Tarrafal. This one is on the main island of Santiago tucked in behind a small
bay. Why here? Cos it has a nice beach and we haven't had much beachy stuff so
far. It also has a nice beach bar but of course that didn't make a bit of
difference as to whether or not we should come here!
The beach is protected. It seems to be the domain
of a big Cape Verdean boy and he operates a successful business by chasing other
wannabe dinghy protectors away. He has the beach rights and no one else!
He delegated a young boy to show us to the Policia
Maritima this morning who brought a friend along. When we got to the police
station he demanded his fee, "Pay me now!". I gave him 100 escudos (1 euro) but
that was not sufficient. His friend had to have 100 escudos as well. This was a
problem cos I didn't have the right change. I handed over 110 escudos to the
friend - 1 fifty and 3 twenties. How would they resolve this - one getting
more than the other? How would young democracy work?I watched as they went off -
bickering at each other. Yes, I thought, that was how our democracy worked as
well.
The police check-in was the simplest so far. We had
all the papework this time - left nothing to chance. Probably just as well since
that had a rusty and well used looking machete in our room.
Then a walk round the market - lots of lovely fresh
produce. We'll stock up here before we go - far better than the Mindelo markets.
Juicy looking oranges, papayas, green bananas, even apples and pears. The best
tomatoes we've yet seen, squashes, spuds, fearsome looking chillies, garlic,
etc.
A lady sitting outside the market had a display of
what looked like big pakoras. I had a closer look and she gave me one. "To try,"
she said in sign chat. It was a chicken pakora but big and with no spices. I was
hungry from all the smells and sights of the market so I ate it happily. "How
many do you want?" I said two, meaning one more. She handed me two more. They
were so filling that even now, seven hours later, I don't think I ever
want to eat again!
Cape Verde fast food - a McVerde seems an apt
description.
We then returned to the beach and the beach bar
(you didn't think we would miss that, did you?) for a drink. Michael ordered an
egg butty and chips. When Andrew saw it he wanted an egg butty as well (he
didn't need chips - he'd already helped Michael dispose of his). It arrived
thick with melted butter, marge or oil. Andrew decided that he didn't think he
liked McVerdeEggButties after all.
Then a much needed afternoon nap for me whilst
Michael made a bean pate. The boys are now playing the guitar as the sun goes
down. It's very pleasant.
Talking of which we had a great dolphin show
yesterday as the sun set. I'm convinced that some of them have had aquarium
training - walking on their tails across the sea.
Aren't we spoilt!
Happy sailing,
P, M & A
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