42:7.32N 8:50.86W Baiona - The town which promised so much and delivered so little...
                Niord's Big Adventure
                  Tony Gratton
                  
Thu 13 Jul 2023 22:34
                  
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 12/07/2023 Muros to Baiona 
Distance covered 47nm. 
Spent a nice calm night at anchor, except for being 
rudely awoken at 4am by an alarm on the boat. All was well, however. Up at 6am 
as has become our habit these days to get an early start. Unfortunately, today 
was misty and wet with poor visibility, so full oilies were required, which came 
as a bit of a shock. As in Muxia, the local fishermen took great delight in 
laying their pots all around us again, but were collecting them in when we left. 
Also saw an interesting group of twenty or so small open fishing boats all 
crammed together in the same area apparently fishing in company. 
Had an interesting sail down accompanied by lots and 
lots of dolphins when leaving Muros. Far too many to count. The wind filled out 
from the North, and with the swell and current behind us we were keeping up 76 
knots plus. Still motorsailing sadly as is the current advice to avoid the 
orcas. The sun came out as we progressed South hugging the islands lying off the 
Rias. Managed to get a booking at the Marina Club Real de Yates. What a 
beautiful yacht club! Set against the walls of a castle with it's own private 
beach, and a very swanky club house far too posh for a couple of sea gypsies 
like us. We felt like we were in a different world compared to this 
morning! 
Despite our protestations about needing fuel, we were 
shepherded to our berth, next to a 60 foot Hanse which a 20 knot wind was doing 
its best to blow us onto. Top of our list of things to do was to fill up with 
water, go shopping, get a beer, then a shower. By the time we had done that it 
was 8ish when we headed into town eagerly anticipating the delights of a meal 
out after a couple of days at anchor. How disappointed we were! We headed to one 
of Neil's recommendations, but it was full, as was most everywhere else, so we 
found a place in the restaurant opposite. Karen had a glass of unpalatable white 
wine, and couldn't find what she wanted on the menu, so ended up ordering some 
croquetas which turned out to be slimy and quite disgusting. Tony ordered what 
he thought was going to be padron peppers cooked in cheese, but which turned out 
to be normal peppers in olive oil accompanied by a huge dollop of goats cheese, 
which he hates! In the end it turned out to be quite palatable, which was a 
surprise. 
And so to bed in preparation for another 6am start in 
the morning. 
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