The weather has changed quite suddenly and we are sheltering in the lee of Canouan Island in The Grenadines. When we slipped out of Wallilabou Bay early this morning the plan was to arrive at Tobago Cays with enough daylight left to show us the passage in through the reefs. Tobago Cays is a marine reserve of three uninhabited islands protected by a horseshoe shaped reef, by all accounts it is one of the most beautiful anchorages in the Caribbean. Pristine beaches, turquoise waters and curious turtles. We were looking forward to a couple of days with nothing to do except enjoy the place.

The morning started out overcast and windless but by nine o’clock we were reefed in 30 knots of north easterly and the seas were building. There was nothing in the forecast to indicate this shift in conditions and the barometer has dipped, but only slightly. Could this be a knock-on effect of the same storm that has swept across the United States this week? I have no way of checking but it does seem likely.

After four hours of fast downwind sailing which left my arms feeling as if I’ve been bench pressing weights all morning, we changed course for Charleston Bay on Canouan. Space here is limited so I’m glad we’re in here quite early, no doubt dozens of other yachts heading ‘down island’ will also be caught out and come looking for shelter. Sure enough, since I sat down to write this two other boats have moved into the bay.