Noeluna en route pour Singapour
Matthieu Vermersch
Wed 7 Apr 2010 05:56


Tonight the entire crew of NOELUNA has voted ANAHO “the best anchorage so far”.

On the north side of Niku Hiva, we are almost alone in this big and calm bay. Two Marquesian families live here and what could be the spot for an unbelievable top hotel resort is “refreshingly” occupied by the “colonie de vacances”  (summer camp) of the Marquesian kids.

The next village is at 1 hour walking distance thru a very steep trail up and down to the next bay (no road, just trail) . Once there, you are welcomed at “Chez Yvonne”, supposedly the best restaurant of Niku Hiva.

Funnily after 2 weeks of relative human isolation we arrived at “chez Yvonne” to be greeted  by the hundreds of passengers of the Aranui (a beautiful cruise/cargo ship) which make their way to this place when the boat is in Hiva Oa, once every three weeks. The Aranui (together with the Taporo IX) is the lifeline of the Marquesan Islands. Bringing freight, tourists, and any pieces of civilization that is needed in this remote part of the world.

But believe it or not, the famous “Yvonne” was already aware that a family of four had trekked all the way from Anaho to have lunch at her place and she  immediately almost ignored two hundred guest coming by car and dedicate all her attention to the starving exhausted and thirsty crew of Noeluna.

Here we were in this crowded little restaurant, treated like kings just because maybe we made the extra mile to deserve her cooking…


In short, that says a lot about Marquesian hospitality. You are coming from afar and the people here are just happy that you have chosen to visit their beautiful yet simple islands.

You are not here for the top star hotel , you are not here for the fancy restaurant. You are here because the people are friendly and the islands are stunning.

Stunning but yet very rough.

Try your luck on the island of Ua Huka when the southeasterly wind is blowing hard.. We managed to moor in Hane bay on Sunday night, but had to leave the anchorage because the swell was just too big. Then, we went to Vaipaee (the main town of Ua Huka) to find even more rough conditions. Last try at Haavei bay….25 knots blowing over rolling seas…

So good bye Ua Huka. We didn’t deserve to land on your shore I guess.


And so we are now in Anaho. 

Please don’t tell too many people of this place.


The very happy skipper of Noeluna