Off Cuba to just short of The Lizard Single-handed

1st
Wind back in early hours with more rain to complete an uncomfortable night. Big
confused seas make progress unpleasant. East end of Cuba out to port, I’ve now
left the Carib and am in the Atlantic. Kate has more surgery today to remove the
mechanical elbow. By lunchtime the weather had cheered up some and progress
easier. Buzzed twice by US Coastguard plane, this being a favoured smuggling
route for drugs from Columbia to the US. 2nd The weather is slowly improving as we get away from
the thundery lows that have taken over the Carib. Buzzed by US Coastguard
helicopter this morning. Past Plana Cay and we are now on the ocean proper,
nothing else till Bermuda. Heading north making as much east as the wind and sea
will allow. Crossed the Tropic of Cancer and left the tropics, long trousers
tonight! 3rd Steady conditions overnight followed by a perfect sunrise
to start the day. A lovely day all round except for the
wind direction! 4th Motored until breakfast and then managed to set sail
heading east at 3kts. Quiet sailing so used the morning to do a cook up. After
making 4 helpings of curried tuna for the freezer I’ve still got 2 helpings left
and that is after ten days of tuna with everything! I think this is one of those
feed the 5000 fish old JC had. 5th Wind died and engine on at 0100hrs, worryingly there is no
wind in the forecast and still 500mls to Bermuda! All going rather well,
time for a nap… after about 20mins I wake. Something is not right. Up on deck
the gennaker has decided to go for a swim! The top swivel has come adrift and
dumped the sail in the water. Bugger. Quickly retrieved and stuffed into a
bag on the aft deck to drain. Unfortunately the weight of the swivel is
insufficient to return the halyard to the deck, a trip to the top of the mast is
required. Bugger again. Just because Ellen went up twice in the south Atlantic
doesn’t mean I am, it can wait until Bermuda. Not so much sargassum weed today
so trying a little fishing. 6th Breeze in again at first light, maui maui
for lunch, a fair sized fish, I just sliced off enough for a few meals, it
will make a welcome change from tuna. Lovely weather again today, blue sky, blue
sea and a reasonable steady breeze giving us almost 5
kts. 7th
Managed to hold the breeze and sail through the night. Daylight brought signs of
the forecast change and by 1400hrs the wind had moved ahead and strengthened and
the rain had started. By 1700hrs I’m forced to ease off and slow down, as the
sea is just too uncomfortable. Hunkered down for the night and went to
bed. 8th
0400hrs and the rain has stopped and it’s looking a little better, time to push
on some more. 9th
Hanging-in there, hoping for forecasted shift in the wind, which will save
several hours on the other tack. Increase in wind speed and rain both arrive on
time, the shift in the wind takes a little longer but in the end we just weather
Plantagenet Bank and reach off for St Georges.
10th Bermuda Passed into
the Town Cut. Tie up at the customs dock for all the usual form filing and on
this occasion lying about why I don’t have clearance from Panama (Best not
mention the stop in Columbia then!)
A German boat “Frea” was on the customs dock unloading a crewmember who
is diabetic and took a turn for the worse 3 days back, boy are they glad to get
rid of him! A few hours sleep and it’s off to arrange the gooseneck repair.
Managed to lose my phone and the boat hook - don’t ask! More
sleeping. 11th Removed the boom from mast in readiness for repair
tomorrow. Hunker down for the rest of the day as it blows and pours. Glad
I’m in here, its going to be awkward outside and I see from the Navtex that one
40ft yacht has been abandoned 20 miles south of Bermuda. The anchorage is
getting very full as no one is leaving and every day three or four more boats
turn up. 12th
The new day is bright and sunny, move onto the berth to get the gooseneck repaired and
go aloft to recover the gennaker halyard. Oil change on the engine and that’s
the jobs just about done. 13th
Fuel, the most expensive ever, and back to anchor. Another cool bright dry
day and the boat is at last drying out for the first time in
weeks. 14th
Check out. I don’t have the patience to wait for the wind to veer, so
decide to go. I’ll make a bit east of north and it will slowly go in my favour.
Once outside and clear, it is very pleasant
sailing. 15th
Pleasant conditions continue, although it’s cold enough for socks. Wind veered
well at lunchtime and we are now pointing in the right direction and, of course,
into a lumpy sea. 16th Wind has veered a little more and has managed to ease off
some, speed up at last. 17th
Lighter winds by morning, set gennaker for a few hours. Whale spotted in the
distance breeching. Distance sailed from Colon 2449 mls, distance to Lizard 2443
mls. So, not counting the channel, I’m sort of half
way. 18th
Another fine day, the wind has finally moved abaft the beam for the first time
since leaving Panama. Fed up with tuna curry, there are still 3 lurking in the
bottom of the freezer thanks to mega tuna. So I decided to create a nut roast.
First read the recipe, which I can’t find. Second make one up…… half of a very
large onion finely chopped (maybe too much ) plus a couple of cloves of garlic
because Kate says everything savoury starts with onion and garlic. Next the
remains of the packet of stuffing, followed by an assortment of nuts (maybe not
enough). Add a splosh or two of water cause it looks dry (try veg
stock next time) and 3 eggs because I remember Kate puts eggs in her nut
roast ( I think it’s the glue). Finally, a couple of sploshes of olive oil
because it doesn’t look sticky enough. (Not bad Mike, but you forgot the
teaspoon of vegemite!) Bake in the oven for a while then serve with a
generous helping of baked beans.10/10 for consistency and texture, 8/10 for
flavour, meant to put some Worcester sauce in it. (Vegemite!).
Alter course to keep my distance from a low, passing to the north. Also want to
try and stay in the southerly air stream and miss the northerly following the
cold front. Dolphins (Atlantic Spotted) came to play for a while at
sunset. 19th A more confused sea today, but hanging-on to the good
weather. Bermuda Radio reports another yacht abandoned, this one 300mls NNE of
Bermuda - please keep a lookout and report. – why don’t they open the sea inlets
and sink them, they obviously don’t want them anymore? More dolphins this
morning, and a nice sized skipjack tuna
caught. 20th A little blowy today, but it seems that heading east has
enabled us to miss the worst. Cold front and winds easing within the next 24hrs.
Woolly hat weather during last night. Spotted dorsal fin of a female Killer
whale quite close and several blows some distance
off. 21st We pass
3000mls sailed since Panama and below 2000mls to go to the Lizard. More wind
than forecast combined with 100 deg shift in wind created a very awkward sea.
One of which caught us good and proper, much water on deck and loose olive oil
and sunflower oil amongst a few other bits below – very messy.
Once the front
had passed, the rain stopped and it soon became a fine sunny day. However, the
very confused sea persisted, so speed had to be kept down. Much
colder! 22nd
Definitely porridge weather now. Sea has eased a lot overnight and now making
reasonable speed. Wind freshens against forecast and forces run off, the swell is positively Himalayan. Spotted a small turtle right alongside, odd that they live out here in the middle of the ocean hoping to find a jellyfish to eat and, once a year, maybe a lady turtle. 23rd
Just after midnight the strong northerly finally eases away enough to get back
on track with it looking like light winds for 24hrs. Wind has died and it’s
engine on, hopefully not for too long, as motoring in this large swell is not
comfortable. Spotted another turtle, there must be more of them than you think –
and some jellyfish so the little fellow won’t go
hungry. 24th First light and the sea is glassy, Sperm whale very close
but shy and difficult to get more than a glimpse, also dolphins (Bottlenose) and
more jellyfish. Wind arrived gently to produce difficult sailing in a big
swell until lunch when the engine went on, before wind finally starts to fill
in. No luck fishing today, too many
dolphins? 25th
Midnight and it’s time to start reefing. Pass half way point Bermuda to Lizard.
Morning sees us enjoying a bit of a sleigh ride. Rain starts and the front
passes over, not as vigorous as the last one. Rain over by nightfall with wind
quickly moderating. Passed Corvo, the most NW’ly of the Azores 120mls to
starboard. 26th
Uncomfortable night with awkward motion and light winds. Almost too cold to get
out of the sleeping bag for a pee! By morning unable to sail down onto course.
After a few hours of hand steering with the gennaker set, I give up and put the
engine on. By teatime the wind is back and we sail gently into the
night. 27th Overnight, in stages, we go from full sail to 3 reefs and
storm staysail, seems to be feast or famine with the wind. Set the drogue as it
looks a prolonged affair. Late morning and a bit of luck, the sky quite
unexpectedly clears, wind drops and sun comes out, set sail again. Odd, this is
not quite right by the forecast. The only bad thing about this is getting the
drogue back in, it’s hard work 28th Midnight and 30kts heavy rain and then a moderation
until it’s engine on and more heavy rain! Again, this is not quite right! So in
48hrs we have gone from no wind to riding at sea anchor to no wind. That’s
a lot of energy expended and not much kip. Today marked the passing of 4000mls
since Panama and less than 1000mls to go to the Lizard. A good afternoon’s
sailing, actually in the right direction for a change and then I check the
weather forecast! Shows yet another depression and this one looks a bit strong!
Decide to head east and see how it develops. This is a bit of a disappointment,
as I was looking forward to a couple of days good fast sailing to make a dent in
the last 1000mls. To look at my track across the ocean this time you’d
think Odysseus was the navigator! Temporary repair made to drogue, just in
case. 29th
Gybed at 0200hrs to keep going east. Good wind and speed. Will start leaving the
fridge door open at night to keep the boat warmer! Update on weather this
morning, confirms east is the way to go. 30th
All reefs out in stages overnight, the day starts grey again but not raining!
Back on course after breakfast. Right on lunch, the wind starts to fill in again
and by 4 we’re fully reefed and forced to come off course a bit and begin
another zig in our zigzag across the pond. (Really glad I spent the best part of
the last 2days zagging!) |