Bermuda to mid-Atlantic

Right Turn
Mike Goldsmith & Kate Richmond
Mon 31 May 2010 19:01

May 2010 Bermuda to mid-Atlantic

 

We spent our first day or two in Bermuda drying the boat out and back into seaworthy state after the passage from Virgin Islands

 

 

St George’s Town hall and a witch dunking re-enactment complete with bikers rally – where else?!

 

 

 

  

  

Re-enactment going on in this pretty little town together with a bikers rally. I chose the right day to go ashore.

 

 
  

 

Supper out in the evening at the pub – delish – big bit of cow!

      

 

        

 

    

Sunday brunch at the St George’s club – amazing complete with champagne – as we’re going up in the lift I tell Mike it’s $40 a head. “$40 for breakfast?” he says in a loud voice, “I did tell you” say I, “It’ll be worth it!” Even Mr Grumpy had to agree it was well worth it! Prawns, crab, smoked salmon, roast beef, salads, seafood curry, and we both also managed 5 desserts! Rolled back down the hill to rest up on RT. Have re-booked my flight for Wednesday evening, so only 3 days to go!

 

 

 

Bus to Hamilton to check out M&S and then a ferry to the Dockyard for lunch and playing at being a tourist! Then back to St George’s on the ferry

 

 

 

 

           

 

   

Told you a cruise ship had to get through that gap too!

 
 

 


    

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We’ve really liked Bermuda – lovely and pretty and clean and well maintained. Shame it’s so far from anywhere!

 

Cooking him some risotto for tonight’s supper and then off to the airport. On my way home and Mike’s got the shitty 3-week passage back to UK. Rather him than me!

Our beautiful girl in St George’s, Bermuda

 

 

 

 

From this point on, Mike’s on his own, without a camera, writing the blog with a sailor’s view point so, read on at your peril! To make life more bearable, I have put any bits which I found vaguely interesting in red italics!

 

The wind has filled in this morning a little ahead of forecast so a quick dash ashore to clear out, get the last bit of provisions (no cupboard bears this time!) and I’m off. Underway by 0930 and once clear set up 50 deg off the wind with one reef. Nearly making the course with the wind set to go Southerly later. The plan is to take the great circle to Bishop’s Rock which should take us north of the Azores high and give us some good westerlies. Overcast and feels cold. 

 

One bite on the fishing line, another big one that bent the hook and got away. Wind eases and veers during the PM and on a run in light winds by midnight.

 

Several days blogs in the same vein!

 

A small pod of dolphins paid a visit just before sunset but it was too dark to identify them.

 

A quiet night and a cold grey damp start but the sun made it by late morning.

 

A bit more wind in the last 24hrs has moved us along a bit but it remains mostly grey and damp. A cold front is due to pass late this PM which should bring a change. For the last 6 hours have had 2 kts of current against which is making for a rough old sea, will hopefully get through it in the next 24hours and then get into the west going current.

 

Had some visitors, one very lost looking swallow last night and this morning a fin whale all 25 metres and 70 odd tons swimming just 10 metres away, he checked us out and then swam off after a couple of minutes.

 

After a blowy old night first light brought loads of rain (cold front finally moving through) and has left us with a wet grey day with an indifferent westerly. Think I might prefer damp and grey to wet and grey!

 

By late afternoon the sun came out and it was a very pleasant evening, managed to get dried out. Had a chat with a passing tanker who says that we give a good radar echo, which is good to know.

 

All change around 0100, big shift in wind into the south, which held up until 0600. There is even a little East going current now so although speeds aren’t great it was smooth sailing.  Light winds all morning, hand steering, drifting, and now motoring for a bit while I do the mid day routines. At least the sun is shining, but it does feel cold – all that Carib rum must have diluted the blood!

 

After lunch settled down for some more drifting and fitted a new hook to the fishing line, by 3 the wind is in and we set full sail, 40mins later we have 3 reefs and a staysail and are doing 6.5 kts.

 

This was followed by a long night of light variable winds which  finally died this morning, only to be replaced by the forecast strong NW’ly. Cracking morning’s sailing under blueish skies.  Spotted one whale in the distance and more dolphins and loads of heavy rain showers plus a full double arch rainbow right astern a little after sunrise. Forecast for Thurs night is looking a bit strong so I’m now on plan B and diving off to the SE for a while.

The good sailing continued into the afternoon with the wind finally fading around 010

 

Motor on to continue plan B, the latest Grib shows we are doing the right thing but it does seem a shame to be going off at a tangent. I tell myself, look at the big picture – in 24 hrs you’ll be glad.

 

Wind starts to come in from the south on cue around 0430. Another cracking morning’s sailing not quite in the right direction, but it is supposed to get blowy tonight, however the wind is already veering which is a good sign. Today’s sightings include Portuguese men of war, a turtle right alongside out here in the middle of nowhere, a couple of pairs of shearwater type sea birds (sorry Pete) doing what I take to be a pre mating flying display, really spectacular and 3 separate blows from a group of whales about a mile away. It’s really quite busy out here.

 

Wind built as the afternoon progressed, decided to fly the storm staysail at 1800hrs when the heavy rain started. By midnight it’s starting to get uncomfortable so hoved to and went to bed.

 

0430 the wind has veered and that’s the worst over and we are rolling now because of the change in wind angle so its time to set off again, this time we can make the course. As the new day arrives, we are bowling along but still fully reefed. Smug me is glad he followed plan B, I would not want to be where I’d have been if I stayed with plan A. As lunchtime approaches the wind decides to have another go so hove to again whilst I report in and dine.

 

The wind eased during the PM but still a very large sea, nearly unfurled a bit of Yankee but the squalls just got bigger and stronger. Around 2200 I thought I’d have an update on the weather- you guessed it - is already due to blow again, so a not-so-smug me gybes and back to plan B.

 

Really good sailing this morning (in the wrong direction) but, not to worry, I’ve decided as I’ve been pushed so far south to call in to Horta to get a problem with the auto pilot fixed.

 

Lovely afternoon. Kept the reefs in and did some odd jobs around the boat, great night with a full set of stars – very clear.

 

The forecast for the day was more wind easing by nightfall. As day broke the cloud rolled in with the wind. Not worried as the forecast was easier than the other day and we sailed through that. How wrong, by noon I thought I’d try riding to the sea anchor. Still, it is going to ease by nightfall.

 

Guess I must have hit the peak of it when I put the sea anchor out, the wind eased a bit and veered a bit during the afternoon. Back under sail by 1600, useful experienced gained.

 

Daylight sees us under more sail and making good speed in the right direction, plus dolphins and a little sun. Can’t be bad.

 

Conditions remain reasonably good, apart from a little early morning rain. Making good progress to Horta and hope to be there late Fri.

 

The last of Kate’s herbs, the parsley, finally passed away after a year onboard of good service - it drank too much seawater during the rough weather. Burial at sea took place during the afternoon.

 

A good breeze held up through the night but it has become a bit iffy this morning and is expected to remain that way until I get to Horta. It’s too light to sail the course, which is a bit of a pain. There have been loads of dolphins around lately but I hope that they have cleared off because the lucky no2 green lure is out to catch some dinner!

 

 

Indifferent winds with showers. Lucky no.2 is still there but not a nibble!

 

Right after lunch I spot another very large whale, this one unusually starts to swim around the boat, but some way off.  I think he’s eyeing up lucky no 2 being towed astern. He shortly loses interest (phew!) And a little later I spot another turtle, small this time – about the size of a dinner plate. During the night the wind veers to the north, which gives a better angle and speed, should be in Horta by 1700hrs.

 

First light and more dolphins and land ahoy after 15 days of wandering around the North Atlantic.

 

Due into Horta around 4 pm, looking forward to a few days marina life – forget it – Horta is a madhouse, one man on marina reception who is rushed off his feet, the marina is full to overflowing – rafted up 8 deep in places. Finally after getting trapped on the fuel berth for a few hours I get to anchor in the harbour 3 hours later and they charge for anchoring. Don’t see a cat in hell’s chance of getting any electronic support, every one I’ve spoken to seems to be in the same boat. I guess it’s down to good old DIY! The town looks nice – tonight it’s a few beers and sleep.

 

Popped ashore for some bits and pieces and spent the day doing odd jobs. No luck with the auto pilot but everything else went ok. It is not only the weekend but Monday and Tuesday are bank holidays!!!

 

Spent the day resetting the mast as the chocks had moved during heavy rolling in light airs. Would have liked a rigger to help do this but it’s not going to happen here this week. Everything is now back 100 % with the exception of the autopilot. Will try again tomorrow morning but doubt that any help is going to be forthcoming so I guess its -get a loaf of bread and set off to dear old blighty. Better check the weather as well!

 

An hour queuing to check out, the same poor man is still rushed off his feet. Quick trip to supermarket back for lunch and I’m off. Well, not quite, whilst in Bermuda our anchor buoy and trip line were fouled by a motorboat and we lost them, so I didn’t rig a trip line, none of the other boats at anchor had bothered. Of course, our anchor is well and truly hooked on an old very large anchor chain I can see on the bottom and it’s too deep for me to dive. Assistance from ashore after their lunch is promised, seems it happens all the time here! No mention in the pilot book. Anyway a little perseverance and I eventually manage to get it clear and so I’m off just after two. By now I’m starting to feel its not my day, just clear the harbour and it’s raining after sun all morning and then there is nearly 2 knots of foul tide running between the islands and the final straw is the wind angle is such that I’ll not clear the NW end of Sao Jorge and tacking without the auto pilot tack facility is just one more pain. It was around now I spilled my cup of tea. Any way I hold the course and fetch up in a little bay called Vila Das Velas on Sao Jorge, time to anchor for the night and hope for better things tomorrow. The wind is due to back tomorrow.

 

Set off bright and early and have a couple of good hours sailing but it doesn’t last, wind fades and the motor is on.

 

Continued motoring until midnight when a light breeze came in.

Hand-steered for a couple of hours until it filled enough for the Hydrovane to take over – need to watch the fuel as I anticipate more light winds before Falmouth.

Good winds and good progress in the last 24hrs but a damp grey day.

 

The good winds remain and look to be with us until Mon, but the outlook has a high pressure developing SW of UK on Tues, could be a problem.

 

Sunshine in the PM, which was nice.

 

Back to grey and very damp this am. Wind is holding up and making good progress. Spotted a Sun fish this morning – odd things and MAP – last couple of days the occasional bird, black with a white band on its rump, about the size of a blackbird. Doesn’t look like a sea bird but must be.

 

Grey and damp went up another level over night with a thick wet fog, which is persisting during the day. I expect the fog will be a feature for the next few days. Also the wind has generally become much lighter and variable. No dolphins for a few days, I’ll try fishing!

And at noon today we are just entering Fitzroy (of shipping forecast fame), which is almost like home waters!

 

The sun broke through right at the end of the PM and produced a really nice evening,

 

Light winds over night but moving again this morning. No fish caught but no lures lost! Grey again today with spotty rain.

 

Light winds and little progress during PM but caught the Bay of Biscay evening rush hour. About an hour before sunset a line abreast of dolphins moving at great speed passed by. The line was well over a mile long and must have contained several hundred dolphins! I guess they were hunting (herding?) supper, did they have another group up ahead ready to close the trap?