St Lucia to Antigua inc dentist!
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February 2010 St Lucia to Antigua
Back in civilization, although we haven’t
really taken to St Lucia, probably on account of an altercation with
a boat boy on the first night! We left St Lucia on the 3rd, having
waited for the rain to pass and set off for a brisk sail to
Martinique. Loads of things sorted – a large gas bottle
installed with a lot of ingenuity on Mike’s part, got an Osteopath to sort out
my back (in French!),
2nd hand B&G display bought and installed (after swearing and
borrowing a drill!) and a couple of trips to a very convenient and cheap Leader
Price for provisioning inc Pastis and white port! Also, we’ve finally worked out
how to activate the MOB button – It turns out you have to be moving for it to
work! - Lucky no one’s fallen overboard before now cos we thought it was
bust! Good sail to Les Trois Ilets – where we ran aground twice trying to park and finally ended up across the bay. Dinghyed in for supper which was lovely and posh and I had meat! (Foie gras and duck!) I am in carnivore-heaven! There was a fete on as well so drum bands and dancers marching up the street outside.
Local race boats - teams of about 10 crew,
most of them balancing on poles to level the boat, which they switch
from side to side as they tack. Bloke in the back is steering with
an oar!
We could easily be in the South of France – very little of the Caribbean, as we know it, to be seen but the Frenchness of bakeries and restaurants is a welcome change. Lugged the empty gas container to a taxi to take us to the gas station in the industrial zone – but they wouldn’t refill it as it isn’t a French size! So on to hypermarche for big provision shop complete with empty gas container! Found a taxi to take us back so loaded all our food and empty gas bottle in to the untidy boot and got in –Mike in the front, (which had to be cleared of stuff first) as the other half of back seat was taken up with yet more of the drivers stuff! At which point the driver cant find his keys. Needle in haystack job as he has so much stuff! We unload all our gently thawing shopping to search the boot. Its not there. Looking through the taxi we find loads of keys but none of them are the one apparently! We reload the trolley and go back into the air-conditioned mall for an ice cream! Taxi driver appears and proceeds to rummage through our bags for his keys. No luck. The other 2 taxis can’t take us as 1 driver has gone off to do his shopping and the other is waiting for his clients! Eventually, another turns up and 20 Euros later we are back in Fort de France. When we unpack the goodies we find his keys!! So on to the police station to hand in the keys and to clear out of Martinique. I spy another British boat with a red ensign and Mike swears it’s Portuguese! Great sail to Domenica where we are met by Pancho who gives us a line tied to the back of his house and we moorr stern to. Wailing siren for 2 hours and a bloody cockerel make it a noisy stay! On to Les Saintes. Nearly gave up as the wind has buggered off
but just as we were giving up to go into Portsmouth on Domenica the
wind comes in and, as we are dropping sails and trying not to hit
the reefs off Les Saintes, the fishing rod screams and we land yet
another tuna – so we are multi-tasking as we sail straight into the
bay to eventually find a spot to drop our anchor next to the
“Portuguese” boat which is definitely flying a red ensign again.
Mike insists they swap it around so that when he looks at it, it’s
Portuguese!! Classic yacht at Les Saintes with Guadeloupe in the distant background Into town – how quaint – Usual stuff- baguette, fruit, Internet!
Restaurant looking like a ship emerging from
the rock! We met up with an American couple, Paul and Annette who have a Sabre 45, same as the Sabre Mike went to Miami to look at when the search for RT2 was underway. They came over to drinks – bringing their own drinks with them! Annette says it’s a sure way to get invited again! The air became very thick and we all thought rain was on the way. Well, it wasn’t rain in the air, it was very thick black ash from the erupting volcano on Monserrat. Couldn’t see through the cockpit window in the morning so we decided it was time to move on. Avery slow start which turned into a good sail in the end to Guadeloupe the last of the French islands.
Went into town in the morning but not for
long, as it was thick with ash dust and blowing in our eyes.
Probably, a nice town but we did a quick bread and rum stop and went
back to the boat. The boat is permanently dusty and so are we – not
conducive to crocheting with cream wool!
One big
bugger! Again a slow start to Antigua, but it turned into a cracking sail to where we think we’ve finally escaped the ash. Saw a turtle and a whale on the trip over. Found a carpenter who will do small jobs the same day for 50EC a time (£12.50) so he’s cut down the cupboard and cut some ply for the veg baskets so we’re hoping we will have a new galley soon – actually, I’m hoping for a new galley soon – Mike’s gone off the idea of the veg location! Hmm, wonder who’ll win this battle! Dinghyed into a little “town” to research taxis to the airport to get Charlotte the next day! More chickens than cars and definitely no buses or taxis to be had!
Hard old life- but somebody’s got to live
it! So back into the capital, St John’s. Luckily for us – no cruise ships in today! – They have spaces for 4. Mike has made the box to contain the veg baskets and it’s all painted ready to be installed – Can’t wait! Late night local disco finished at 6.25 the next morning!
Mike’s quick dinghy ashore early this morning
has produced the necessary bolts to mount the veg baskets – we’re in
business. They replace the string bag idea – which was a better idea
than actuality!
Then off to the airport to collect Charlotte
whose plane was an hour late so we landed up in the bar while we
waited – hard life. Eventually, back to St John’s to rescue our
dinghy from the town drain and straightaway off to Deep Bay so
Charlotte could have a swim in blue water before sunset. Tried to fix all the goodies Charlotte has brought out for us but a very low success rate so far! 2 out of the 3 LED bulbs are right (but, later, 1 of them goes on the blink!) and my cooling fan works but the propane regulator is wrong (again!) We now have 2 propane regulators both of which are incorrect apparently! Short sail back to 5 Islands in the hope of finding somewhere less rolly for Charlotte’s sick feeling. Unfortunately the dinghy outboard cut-off key has gone missing (Apparently stolen by pelican!) so with the aid of my tweezers we set off to chandlers in search of replacement – of course, no joy! Mike spent the afternoon whittling a new one out of a piece of wood.
Monserrat, in the distance, with ash down its
sides and a rock looking suspiciously like dormouse, we
think!
Lumpy long sail to English Harbour, poor
Charlotte lost whatever breakfast she’d had about 30 mins before we
got there! Used “new” outboard key to go ashore which fell off and
snapped the engine cut-off switch in 2 so now we can’t stop it or
start it!
English Harbour is nice to stroll around but
we don’t quite understand the attraction, as anchoring there is a
nightmare due to lack of space. Finally managed to anchor with a
line ashore to the mangroves. Ate out, nice meal – Charlotte and I
got bitten by ants at the first table we were given so they moved us
and gave us a bottle of wine on the house! Smart! Whilst deliberating whether to go ashore in the morning someone managed to snag our anchor so a frantic 45 mins was spent trying to untie the shore line from the dinghy and avoid hitting the catamaran tied up next door. Charlotte managed to fend off the cat while Mike was untying us and I was trying not to panic as I negotiated our way out .
Mr Bond and Action woman goin’
snorkellin’! My toothache now unbearable so we quick sailed back to
Jolly as we have found a dentist in St John’s who can see me at 2.30 (good time
to see a dentist!). 3 injections
and an X-ray later, he has decided tooth needs pulling on Saturday morning after
some anti-biotics have taken effect. Looking like a hamster but at least the toothache has cleared up - till tomorrow. Ashore for dinner – The condemned woman ate a hearty dinner! Next morning, very stressful but the offending item is removed and I still look liker a hamster. Unfortunately, he tells me after he’s removed the tooth “No alcohol based liquids for 2 weeks”. “Excuse me, did you say alcohol?” “Yes, ma’am” “2 weeks?” “Yes ma’am” “Wish you’d told me that before you pulled the tooth! ” “Why?” “Wouldn’t have let you pull it probably!” He falls about laughing and I continue crying!
Pelican picture of the
year! In the afternoon, Charlotte leaves – we shall miss her. She wrote in the visitors book: My last day seems
quite stressful compared to the past week, I have to pack, write this book
entry, swim, read my book all whilst boat-sitting while Dad takes Kate to the
dentist! I’ve had a fab week in the sun relaxing. My only complaint, I’m sure I
was told it would be nice calm waters! Sorry Dad, you’re never going to get me
into this sailing lark! As always I’ve been pampered by Dad and Kate, so thanks,
both of you. I’ve taught them a new card game, however, I will not be
responsible for the arguments over the rules after I’ve left! Enjoy the rest of
the Caribbean – you have such a stressful
life!” We settle down for medicinal scrambled eggs! |
