Across to Nova Scotia 46:56N 58:16W

Millybrown
Mark Hillmann
Sun 14 Sep 2008 17:55
One of the American yachtsmen in Francois (who sailed a big posh Swedish yacht) was advising dismally that the wind always blows from the south west here, at this time of year.  Nova Scotia is south west of Newfoundland.  My lack of concern and comment that I went to windward faster sailing than motoring in any breeze, was greeted with disbelief - or surprise at such a small engine.
 
Both the American yachts were planning early departure although the larger one was still moored at 10am when I was shopping.  My casual attitude to setting off, was really because the 160 mile crossing was unlikely to be completed in one day and my current predicted arrival time, if this wind holds is 7 am tomorrow. Two nights at sea seemed more likely to give a daytime arrival.
 
He was right about the wind yesterday but the forecast was for it to come round to south today.  I headed south all yesterday and did not tack west until midnight.  As hoped the wind has come south now and we are bouncing along at 5 knots heading for the entrance to the Bras d'Or Lakes.  As long as the wind does not get up too much, sunshine and spray seem what this game is all about.
 
No-one can call a Contessa, going to windward with her rail in the water, a dry boat, but nothing is getting in the cabin.  Not even the spray hood is up yet, it seems a shame to block out the sunshine.    
 
There are few birds about: Some gulls and the odd shearwater but not the constant fulmars and shearwaters of further north.  There was a big school of dolphins (at least 40) yesterday  playing round the bow and eventually left astern.  In the night there were two visits, one by a single dolphin and later another school.  There may have been a lot more that I did not see; I do sleep most of the time at night. 
 
The alarms go off every hour, if the off-course alarm (showing a slight windshift) or the AIS (showing a ship) do not wake me first.  There have been three ships closer than 5 miles in the last 24 hours, so not heavy shipping.  They are tankers and container ships heading out of the Great Lakes or Quebec.  Most important:  No fog, so you see ships perhaps 10 miles off.  I much prefer a decent breeze, even from ahead, to motoring in fog.
 
 
For those lamenting the lack of pictures in the Newfoundland fog here are a couple, not posted as I was short of phone time:
 
 
 This was Petty Harbour, the first harbour south of St Johns with Assaf, the wandering Israeli.
 
 Look, you can see the fog, although it was an attractive little place.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 This one is St Pierre on the day when the sunshine started.  A neat, prosperous feeling place, until the French stop subsidising it. 
 
 They may have earned enough from the Grand Banks fishery in the past and hope for the same in the future.