We arrived at this little harbour a short
while ago after a night moored to an island.
We tried to get into a bay on the island
of Mato but it was too shallow. We
went round the end and there were rocks along the shore that looked suitable, so
we anchored about 80m out. With the anchor
at the stern, our bow was manoeuvred to a rock for Helgur to jump
ashore. An anchor followed and we were soon fixed, with our fender plank
used as a walkway.
Our primus stove and kettle went ashore, driftwood
was collected and the whale from Qaqortoq was soon cooking.
Whale meat, rice and salad with a little wine, then some berries from the
profusion behind us. Round a camp fire, on a calm evening, with the sun
setting behind the cloud banks. Even the whale was good, neither stringy
nor too pungent.
We pulled the boat out a couple of metres for the
night to allow for tide, but came in again this morning to walk up the
island. There were even some real bilberries, the blueish ones which taste
better than the black ones on a moss type leaf that are much more common.
I do not know the name of the black ones, but we eat plenty of
After Mato we came round to Narsaq. It is on
a cross channel between Bredefjord, which has a large glacier discharging ice
at its head and Tunugdliarfik, the fjord leading up to
We can well believe that Bredefjord is often
blocked by ice. There is a continuous line of bergs lying along
the far shore.
The entrance to Narsaq harbour was round a berg
that filled half the entrance; there are plenty more lurking
We tied up and as I blogged, the crew bought white
wine to cook mussels that Helgur had collected on the island. Whale round
the camp fire yesterday and mussels in both white wine source and and
garlic butter today. Now the Milly Brown pancakes are cooking,
traditional Estonian but with added oatflakes.
I strongly recommend Estonian hitch hikers as crew
in Greenland: Even disagreement between the chefs enhances the
diversity of the final banquet.