South Asia March 2016

Graptolite's Sailing Log
Martyn Pickup & Heike Richter
Wed 30 Mar 2016 23:00

18.03.2016 Colombo, Sri Lanka

Tour de Colombo

Arrived in Sri Lanka. We got the folding bikes out and hit the streets of Colombo. It was unbelievably hot and humid. There were no other bicycles to be seen anywhere and we were of huge interest to the natives with many of them waving and cheering with big grins. I assume good naturedly. It was not a very photogenic experience. The first building the Memsahib wanted a photo of was forbidden by a teenage-looking policeman. It was some kind of government building. We then cycled along the seafront next to a famous stretch of dusty mown grass called Galle Face. Then on to find a mythical floating market on a lake. We took some wrong turnings, passing bus and train stations and markets with an insane racket of Sinhalese, Tamil and gratuitous tooting coming from countless loudspeakers and tuk-tuk horns. We eventually found the market  but disappointingly it was not floating at all but sitting on some industrial-looking concrete stilts and had some very uninteresting shops.

 

In need of refreshment we pedalled  back to the upmarket Galle Face Hotel and got a table in the pool bar and had a number of rehydrating beers for me and some fruit-based drinks for the Memsahib. We also had lunch which included some very nice deep-fried shrimps the size of small lobsters although none of it was particularly Sri Lankan cuisine. I could have done with a curry but we were too early for the lunch buffet. H had duties on board in the afternoon so we sweated our way back to the ship.

 

Another departure from a port ensconced in the Wellness Suite with waterbed, Jacuzzi, sauna, balcony, sushi, sashimi and prosecco.

 

19.03.2016 At Sea

Germans at play

A day at sea heading towards Cochin, India. I know it’s a cliché but Germans and sun loungers are a bad combination. I’ve not managed to prove it yet but I think many get up before first light to stake their claim using beach towels. Some have even brought big clothes pegs to fix the towels in place for the avoidance of doubt. Most beds are also usually unoccupied as dem deutschen Volke slither between sun, shade and bar during the day dropping territorial towels where ever they go.

 

Saw a very good show with the Memsahib called “Bellagio” in the boat theatre in the evening. It seemed to be about the Venice Carnivale with some aerial circus acrobatics.

 

20-22.03.2016  Cochin, India

Visa? That will do nicely

Arrived in Cochin, India but no exploring ashore for me as I have no visa. The Memsahib went exploring in a tuk-tuk on her mariner’s papers. She claims to have even driven the thing when the police were not looking.

 

23-24.03.2016 Mormugao, Goa, India

Colourful Sunrise

A day at sea and then we arrived in Mormugao, Goa but I still couldn’t  get off the ship and it was especially annoying as it was the Holi Festival of Colours here where people throw coloured powders at each other in a very photogenic way.

 

An Indian Navy submarine, one of 14 apparently, parked up next to us sneaked away to sea later in the morning. Mean-looking and probably has some nasty torpedoes but a diesel-electric thing and not really Red October.

 

The Memsahib went ashore in the afternoon on one of our folding bikes towards the town of Vasco da Gama but only got a little bit coloured as the Holi thing  is usually just in the morning. The stuff is really hard to wash off it seems.

 

We departed from the port just before sunset with red kites circling overhead. The light and the suddenly bearable temperature made even the floating dry docks and rusty ancient passenger ships tied up there look nice. The two-for-one Tequila Sunrises helped.

 

25.03.2016 Mumbai, India

Closed Gate

Stuck on the boat. Indian Navy ships all around in the harbour including four submarines and an aircraft carrier. There were a couple of fast patrol boats around as well presumably to intercept any slightly less fast terrorists. The Memsahib went ashore on a tourist trip with a group of officers led by some Indian crew. She reported seeing no street crowds spontaneously erupt into Bollywood dance scenes. I could just about see the top of the Gateway to India if I stood on a chair.

 

26-27.03.2016 At Sea

Easter Weekending

I found myself helping to write an Easter church service for the crew. Me. This was because of my knowledge of thine King James English.  It’s not a heresy against the teachings of the atheist confession to do such things and I didn’t laugh at the improbable stuff.  The service was excellently delivered by Jesus himself. Actually a Jesus doppelganger and very pleasant fellow called Dr. Thomas Draxler who normally does some kind of self-defence class onboard.