Our R&R seems to have been preceded by Recovery!  The climate here is considerably cooler than we have been used to and since our arrival there has been plenty of wind and rain.  Going ashore has meant digging out our foulies and risking life and limb clambering out of the dinghy onto high sided concrete wharves with slippery steps, whilst being tossed about in the swell and then returning to Whisper at anchor in quite heavy seas, clambering back onboard whilst trying to keep the daily rations of shopping dry as the swell slops in-between Rustle and Whisper.  Somehow, snoozing in comfort on board has been a more favourable pastime!  

 

The town of St George is a UNESCO Heritage site and steeped in history.  The town was the first settlement on the island and was the islands capital for more than 200 years.  It is very quaint and attractive with narrow streets and pretty coloured buildings, all with the same traditional Bermudan architecture of white limestone roofs.  Bermuda has no natural water reserves, rivers or lakes, all the islands water is sourced via its rainfall.  The water is purified by the lime wash on the roofs and collected via the glides or gutters directing the water into storage tanks either above or below the ground. The white roofs also help to keep the houses cool by reflecting the sunlight and the wooden shutters give protection from the elements and also keep the house cool in the summer.  The town has undergone massive renovation and the streets are full of restaurants, shops, artists galleries, gift shops and museums.  Most days there is a historical re-enactment when the Town Crier in all his splendid regalia metes out punishment on the Town Drunk and the Town Gossip by sitting them on the end of a 'dunking stool' (like a long see-saw), which is hung over the jetty and the punishment is tipping them down unceremoniously into the waters below and hoisting them up again only to dunk them again if they continue to give abuse and remain unrepentant.  This activity is particularly noisy and generates quite a crowd of sightseers. 

 

Yesterday, we watched the Peppercorn Ceremony in the town square.  This ceremony dates back to 1816 when the Bermuda Government moved from St George to the new capital of Hamilton.  The State House which was the scene of meetings of the Queen's Council and site of many official functions was given to the Town Mayor and Council in trust for the St George Freemason Lodge for the annual rent of one peppercorn.  Every year the rent is paid at this traditional ceremony and remains one sole peppercorn.  The town square was awash with colour, the Governor and Council and many dignitaries attended, everybody dressed in their spotless uniforms, ladies in their best hats and dresses Ascot style.  The Bermuda Regiment were splendid in their white uniforms and helmets, their instruments glistening in the sunlight, whilst the Bermuda Rifles in their red uniforms smartly executed their rifle drills.  The many Freemasons of the St George Lodge attended wearing their aprons decorated according to their rank and station.  The local primary school children in their colourful school uniforms lined the square, some of the older ones responsibly handing out leaflets to the gathering crowds.  St George is twinned with Lyme Regis, the link being that Admiral George Somers had claimed Bermuda for the Crown and as he was born in Lyme Regis and had been the Mayor there and was later to become the Mayor of St George.  The present Mayoress of Lyme Regis and the towns Town Crier also attended the ceremony.  Fortunately the rain which was threatening held off until the end, but the following feast had to be held in the Cruise Ship Terminal whilst the heavens opened up. 

 

We managed to meet up with an old Bermudan friend of Noel's, who was more than surprised that we have sailed here.  He has a mooring which we can use just off his property on one of the small islands in Hamilton Sound, which will be lovely for us.  He is going to pilot us round there early next week which will be exciting as we will take a cut through from this bay to the other side of the island, which entails going through a narrow swing bridge.