15:34.009N 061:27.713W

Whisper
Noel Dilly
Sat 9 Feb 2013 17:59
"Prince Rupert Bay, Portsmouth - 6/7/8th February"

6th February

Last night the two French couples who had been on our island tour invited us to share in their evening meal.  The two husbands were both born in Nigeria, becoming school friends and continuing their friendship when their families had to return to France following  Nigeria's independence.  Both of them enjoy cooking and love to cook African dishes.  They explained that there are only four different sauces which can be added to any available meats or fish and are easy to prepare and very suitable for cooking on board.  We had a mild curry sauce with chicken, it was very good and we enjoyed it very much.

Today, Eric Spaghetti took us and the two French couples snorkelling in the next bay.  Yachts are not allowed to anchor in this bay as the National Park Authorities are trying to protect the coral in the hope that it will regenerate itself.  Eric tied up to a buoy and we all jumped out of his boat and left him to have a snooze while he waited for us.  The sea was beautiful and clear, but the coral was nothing like the corals of the Great Barrier Reef which I have been privileged to swim over, sadly it lacked the many colours seen in other waters, but there were signs of new growth so hopefully with care it will grow again.  We saw many fish including several cuttle fish which are quite rare to see as they are usually so well camouflaged.  Getting back into the boat was interesting, with an almighty heave from Eric I was unceremoniously  landed feeling like a beached whale. Our journey back to Prince Rupert bay was quite slow as it was really windy, we kept close into the shore, but once around the turquoise waters of the headland, Eric opened up the throttle and we roared back to our boats surrounded in spray. 

7th February

We spent the day refuelling and relaxing.  We collected diesel by canister from the fishing dock, it took us two trips by dinghy, but was easy enough. Getting water was a tad more adventurous.   We motored Whisper to the Cruise Liner dock, leaving Rustle on the mooring.  We had read that it is best for yachts to go inside the finger as the wind holds the boats off, we were a little concerned about this as there is not a lot of room between the rocks and the dock to turn around and Whisper does not go astern very well.  We approached cautiously and as we got closer we both silently began to wonder just how on earth I was going to clamber up onto this mountainous high jetty.  Huge tractor tyres covered the metal ladders as fenders and the wooden framework of the jetty was impossible to climb.  Noel nudged Whisper gently forwards until  I was fortunately able to lasso one of the enormous pillars above my head.  Having got a hold I was then able to climb up onto the pulpit and clamber up onto one of the tyres before crawling under the wooden railings and making the line fast on the most enormous red cleat.  Noel expertly threw me the stern line and we were secure.  The jetty was deserted, as yachts cannot go there if a ship is on the dock, as the hose pipe was under lock and key I had to leave Noel and Whisper hanging off the dock and seek some help.  I could not get out of the gate to the dock, so wandered through the deserted Customs Shed until I found an official who could help.  The price of the water was EC15 for up to 500 gallons, I joked with the immigration official, that with that much water we would sink.  50 gallons later our main water tank and two extra tanks were full again.   The next problem was, how was I to get back on board? The wind was indeed holding Whisper off the jetty!  We singled up the two lines so that once on board we could let them go and pull them back on board.  Noel pulled Whispers bow right in, whilst I clambered back onto the tyre ready to step down into the pulpit, as she rose on the swell I was able to cling to the furled headsail and just reach the pulpit and step down safely onto the deck.  We then let the bow line go, praying that it would not snag on the square edges of the pillar, Whisper obliged by letting the wind gently push her head round, whilst the stern line kept her secure until we had swung around sufficiently to free her off and we motored away.  I am not sure which of us was more amazed that the whole operation had gone successfully without a hitch or even a fouled rope!  It must have been our lucky day. 

8th February

Today we went exploring by foot looking for the source of the Indian River, we followed the trail that wound its way along the river bank through the forest.  It was quite eerie walking through the buttress trees, their gnarled flat roots sticking out everywhere making all sorts of interesting shapes.  We found the Jungle Bar which we had visited on the river trip and after refreshment walked along the trail until we could go no further, other than to cross the river on a single bamboo pole.  I drew the line at this after surviving yesterday's excitement at the cruise dock.  We turned back taking a different path and a walk uphill through orchards of grapefruit, mangoes, bananas, passion fruit vines etc.  Again the path ran out, but not before we had seen the spectacular view across the bay.  We walked back down often stopping and watching the humming birds enjoying their feast in the flowering trees around us.  It was a great walk, followed by a well earned swim from Whisper before afternoon tea. 


Photographs: "Indian River" "Prince Rupert Bay, Portsmouth"
 

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