32:44.50N 16:43.17W
Whisper
Noel Dilly
Mon 17 Sep 2012 15:20
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"Sunday - 16th
September"
We have had two wonderful days being shown some of the many beautiful places in Madeira by our two new cruising friends whom we met on the OCC Rally. They have been visiting the island for many years and know it very well. They are also wintering their yacht here so have been busy "laying up" and are now lifted out of the water and have found safe dry yacht storage under Funchal runway! Flat land in Madeira is none existent, so the runway has been built out over the sea on vast concrete pillars giving wonderful space for enterprise, similar to under our railway arches in London. Our day started on an amusing note yesterday. We had agreed to meet at the Marina at 10am. The temporary road down past the new village to the marina level is quite rough and single track and was particularly busy at this time with tourists being delivered for a boat trip leaving from the harbour. We thought it would be better to walk up and left a little early. We arrived at the top in good time and waited talking to some people who were catching the local bus. Time went by and suddenly our hosts appeared driving up the very same road we had just walked. We could not see how we could have missed each other. All became apparent, they had driven down into the underground car park and whilst parking we had walked passed the entrance and up the hill. The story unfolded further as they then walked to Whisper's pontoon which is security controlled and not having a key the gate had to be scaled only to find that we were not on the boat! After we all stopped laughing we set off on our tour and what a tour it was the island is absolutely beautiful so diverse in rock formation and fauna. It would be impossible to cover all areas in one day, so we stayed on the eastern end driving first up to the second highest peak on the mountain, Pico do Areeiro which stands at 1818 metres, higher than any mountain in Britain. The drive up was twisting turning and incredibly steep at times even passing through the urban areas, nothing is built on the level always on a hillside. As we progressed inland the steep valleys were green unlike the barren rocks of the eastern peninsula. Amazing rock formations towered down above us and steep valleys disappeared below. The many valleys are not spanned by bridges always the road follows the contour of the peaks with tight bends at the furthest end to cross to the other side and always amazing views. What can I say about the final view from the peak the journey had been so amazing and here we were looking down on something so spectacular. We were high above the tree line surrounded by peaks, ridges and rock formations of all colours and shapes, the sight below us was magnificent. Several trails leave from this point heading down and up ridges disappearing into the distance. We hope that we will be able to walk one of these in the future. We were particularly lucky that the visibility was so clear, white fluffy clouds only dotted the clear blue sky, often the mountains are shrouded in mist or rain. We continued on our way down by another route and stopped off to take a short walk along a levada. Briefly a levada is a man made water course built from rock and concrete to bring the water down from the mountains to supply the villages below. The local people build terraces on the hillsides to grow produce for themselves or to sell, the water from the levadas is used to water their land. Often their plots are far away from their homes and they have some distance to travel by foot. The beauty of the levadas is that not only are they a major contribution to survival of the island but because they slope very gently following the many contours they also provide a narrow pathway which create wonderful hikes for enthusiasts. This was Noel and my first experience of a walking along a levada trail in Madeira. I was amazed to walk around one bend in what seemed the middle of nowhere and find a small wooden house built on the edge of the hill with a bar and stall selling hand knitted hats and socks typical of the island, what an enterprising family? The real wonder of the walk followed some 20 minutes later, we rounded a wall of rock and there before our yes was a dramatic and beautiful view of the valley below stretching down towards the sea in the far distance. The valley itself consisted of many other smaller valleys, green peaks and rock domes, it too was marvellous and such a surprise from the enclosed leafy wooded trail we had been walking beside the levada. We saw many other beautiful natural sites including the point where three rivers come down a large valley separated by two very narrow high ridges and meet at a narrow point before spilling into the sea. At this time of the year there is little water but in the winter it is a torrent as the three rivers converge and rush into the sea. Having spent a wonderful day touring the area we were taken to another beautiful spot high above the sea where there was a traditional style thatched restaurant. The furnishing was rustic, wooden tables and chairs and a log fire burning in an open recess, which was the oven for cooking the most delicious smoked beef. This dish is a speciality of Madeira and I can tell you it was delicious. The beef is cut into large cubes and threaded onto skewers at least a metre in length. The skewers are then put into the oven and cooked whilst you wait. I moved an empty plate left in the middle of the table to make room for the plate of salad, it was quickly placed back in the same position and explained that the skewers would hang over the plate once cooked. I looked up, there protruding from the beam were four large hooks. In time the skewers of meat arrived coooked to perfection. They were hung from the hooks above the plate, this caught the juices and the meat should it fall as we pulled each piece down the skewer with our knives and forks in turn. It was a gastronomic delight and we all enjoyed it immensely. We arrived back at the marina just in time to enjoy part of the religious festival for which all the preparations had been taking place at the chapel above the marina and the fishing village of Canical. A fishing boat decorated with flags had arrived at the marina to collect the statue of the Madonna, carried from the chapel high on the hill above. Once the Madonna was safely on board, the clergy, musicians and many many people crowded on to the boat, there did not appear to be an inch of space unoccupied. The boat cast off and joined the procession of decorated boats waiting outside the harbour to escort the Madonna to Canical, where she would stay overnight. The celebrating festivities and music could be heard on the wind long into the night. Today, we went for a most exciting and beautiful walk along a coastal path high on the cliff face above the crashing waves below. The walk started off on a broad dirt track before becoming narrower and wooded. Beautiful pink African lillies grew wild at the sides of the paths and cactus grew on the faces of the rocks. Soon it became really exciting as the trees were left behind and the track narrowed and opened up to the steep drop below us. In several places a wire hand rail had been fixed to the rock where the old mule track had become eroded over the years and was very narrow and uneven. The views of the rugged coastline to east and west were quite stunning and looking back at where we had just walked was nerve racking. Eventually we reached a point where we had to turn inland, the cool breeze off the sea was replaced by a warm and dusty wind blowing up the valley. Now we were beginning to see all the small farmsteads with their terraces, tilled and planted with various vegetables, we walked on down the valley and reached a levada which gently took us on down to the end of our route. It was a great walk and enjoyed by all. We arrived back at the marina in time to see the return of the Madonna. The procession of small boats waiting outside the harbour whilst the statue was returned to the chapel above. Hoards of people could be seen around the chapel watching the arrival below. Soon the clergy, musicians and people returned, boarded the crowded fishing boat and left once more for Canical. Thank you so very much Beate and Harald, we have had a wonderful fun and exciting two days with you as our 'Tour Guides'. Photograph: "A Levada"
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