39:35.012N 009:04.516W
Whisper
Noel Dilly
Sat 1 Sep 2012 14:05
|
"Nazare - 30th
August"
We had great fun, our American friends from the OCC Rally, were planning a cultural trip in land by bus and asked if we would like to join them. On making enquiries it appeared 'by bus' would be rather difficult and cost more for the four of us than hiring a car. It was agreed to hire a car and the reservation was made for the morning. We were collected at the marina at the agreed time and driven into town to the car hire office. Paperwork completed into the car we all jumped and we were off. Dick our driver and Moira the navigator and tour guide (she had read about the places that they wanted to visit) and us two backseat drivers were two welcome extra pairs of eyes. Our first mistake was not to turn the car around and go back to the main beach road but think that we could take the next couple of left turns and achieve the same position from which to start our departure from the town. No way did this happen, we ended up on a rickety dust road on our 1st left, then we were confronted with a no left turn so were forced right into a narrow street, but eventually we popped out on to the beach road. Our instructions had been to turn right at the roundabout. We came across several road junctions but no roundabout so we kept going until the beach road ran out and we were forced to turn right. Now we were in trouble this was the old part of town with very narrow streets of houses, no pavements just enough room to walk three abreast and certainly not built to accommodate automobiles! Suggestions were made that maybe a Mini would have been better! Having squeezed down the first street, we then arrived at a small square, with umbrellas and tables set out, we were viewed with much amusement I am sure. We safely negotiated the obstacles before turning up an even narrower street, now the wing mirrors were nearly scraping the buildings, but we could see the beach at the end of the street so at least we were going the right way and popped out onto the main street again with four sighs of relief! The roundabout we now knew was none existent, so we took the first main street heading up out of the town, after various negotiations of several junctions we felt we were on our way. Can you imagine our surprise when we found ourselves back at the marina, the mirth was such that I was nearly crying. It is impossible to narrate the whole of the journeys activities, but it really was very funny, we were convinced that before long we would find ourselves in Lisbon many miles south of us, the map lent to us with the car was most certainly not the AA's 1 mile to the inch, we most certainly would have stood a better chance had it been, but we experienced toll gates and payments on the autoroutes etc and arrived at our destinations unscathed and much amused. Our first visit was to the 12th century Monastery of Alcobaca, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the finest example of Cistercian architecture in Europe. It has a long history and an interesting love story connected to it. The building was completely built of stone, of simple design but awesome by the sheer size of everything. It was simply massive, light, airy and so peaceful with arched cloisters surrounding the beautiful neat gardens on all four sides, through which ran a watercourse supplying the kitchen with water. The Grand Kitchen was unbelievable, a huge chimney canopied the range area in the centre, large enough to take a whole ox for roasting. Several smaller chimneys on the perimeter of the room providing other cooking areas, stretched many feet up to the centre chimney - sufficient cooking facilities to feed an army. Next we drove further south to Obidos, a romantic medieval walled town. Evidently it is a traditional gift given by Portuguese Kings as a dowry to his Queen. The views were magnificent overlooking farmland, windmills and vineyards, no health and safety here as we walked along the top of the ramparts, only a notice advising that children should be accompanied by adults. The traffic-free narrow streets, only just wide enough for two horses pulling a carriage, were atmospheric. Bougainvillea and geraniums in abundance growing in pots or up walls of tiny houses, tables and chairs outside the cafes and restaurants, street artists performing, shops selling most beautiful knit ware, embroidered linen, ceramics etc all of excellent quality and at such reasonable cost. Sadly stowage is a problem especially with the impending trans Atlantic trip of carrying sufficient stores for four people for three weeks, worry enough that I did not laden myself with purchases. It was easier to find our way back to Nazare, we avoided being swung onto the motorway south to Lisbon. Having the car was a good opportunity to stock up at the supermarket get fuel etc which we did before going back into town for a very pleasant traditional dinner of fish stew! It was had been a great day. "Nazare - 31st August" We are still here in Nazare, the wind is blowing old boots but we are hoping that it will die down over night as we hope to leave for Madeira in the morning. We plan to go directly and it will take us about 4 or 5 days. Whisper is provisioned and the water and diesel tanks both full. We only need to do one small task on the mainsail then we are fit to leave this safe haven. Dick and Moira joined us in exploring Nazare on foot, we took the funicular railway up the cliff and walked to the lighthouse. The sight was tremendous, the Atlantic crashing onto the miles of sandy beach on both sides of the rocky headland, having exploded and divided on the rocks below. The wind died and we all enjoyed a very pleasant evening in the cockpit exchanging tales of cruising experiences, tips etc. "Nazare - 1st September" Another glorious day with little wind, many yachts left this morning but with warnings of further strong winds later today, we will once again delay until tomorrow when the front will have passed by and we can start our longer passage in comfort, besides it has given me the opportunity to do the washing "by hand"! After all there has to be a price to pay for such wonderful days! Photograph: "Medieval Town of Obidos" |
