Hard to leave the Saints
Rhiann Marie - Round the World
Stewart Graham
Sun 25 Sep 2011 12:01
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Sunday 25th September 1112 UTC 1212
BST
15:48.357S 005:51.649W
Wind 25 Knots SE, COG 302 Deg True, SOG 8.0
Knots
I had quite a late night last night saying goodbye
to my Saint friends so I am sailing a little conservatively at the moment to let
my own and the furling gear repairs settle in.
Saint Helena is the most remote inhabited
island by time, anywhere in the world they say. What I mean by that is that with
no airport it will take at least two days to get anyone or anything here in an
emergency. When the RMS left on Friday that was it until the 29th of October.
Nothing. No materials, food, medical supplies no people on and no people or
product off. This really is a situation quite unique and hard to imagine in
todays connected world. Several hundred years ago Ships depended on St Helena
for replenishing stores and supplies but now St Helena is truly dependent on
ships.
...... for goodness sake I don't know what's going
on here - the wind is pushing 30 knots now!
The main town on St Helena, Jamestown
really feels like a bit of living history. The town is largely Georgian but
I think influences of all the people and eras that the island has endured can be
seen in the buildings. I think the echos of the past can be felt in the streets.
The whole aura of the town hints at tales of slavery, the age of sailing ships,
colonial and imperial ideals, war and exile. These same streets that have seen
Napoleon, the Duke of Wellington, Captain Bligh, Arthur Halley, Charles Darwin
and Captain James Cook had me a teuchter from the Hebrides strolling up and down
them yesterday, enjoying the pleasant weather and shooting the breeze with all
my new acquaintences.
The land is rocky and steep to, but when you go
inland lush tropical vegitation can be found and other areas are green
pastureland. Kieth Yon took me for a tour of the island on Friday which included
an arranged visit with guide to Napoleon's house at Longwood where he was held
as an "open prisoner" from 1815 to 1821 when he died. Being a "War and Peace"
fan I found it incredibly interesting to be in the rooms where this famous
or perhaps infamous leader lived and died. History has been kind to him I
think. Ultimately he was responsible for hundred's of thousands of deaths
due to his expansionism in Europe. Must have had a good PR
team......
The island is relatively poor, wages are very
low and it is immediately apparent that the British supported government
administraion is what keeps the island going and provides over half the jobs.
Unfortunately many of the top jobs are staffed by people who are "parachuted" in
for a few years and the consequence of this is that most of that remuneration
goes back off island. An effort needs to be made to train up more local people
to do the admin jobs that are necessary. There is no export of any real
significance and without this then the best the island can hoep for is to be
self supporting but even that would be quite a challenge.
However there is a grand plan to built an airport.
Of course this on a small island is not without its objectors fearing
for a long term change in the culture of the island. This is an argument I am
familiar with myself and while it has some validity there is no doubt that to
move to a viable long term economy there has to be some cultural and traditional
"give". No pain no gain. For sure the island can not continue long term living
off what is effectively British subsidy.
If the airport ever comes, jump on a plane and go
visit the Saints. They are a great and friendly bunch of people. Yesterday
while spending the day socialising people would stop in the street and speak to
me. Friends I had made would stop their cars in the street to have a chat with
me and all in all it, once again was a little hard to leave.
Yesterday I had Craig and Kieth Yon and families
out to Rhiann Marie for a lunch and the kids and I took Rhiann Marie for a wee
blast in the afternoon while the parents went to take up their positions in
their local football team. Too old I would have said, but they beat the top of
the league team 4 - 0! Must have been the lunch.
Today setting off, my dodgy freezer is fully
replenished with Lobster and Wahoo and my galley has a dozen and a half,
farm fresh, free range eggs all gifted to me............. what would a journey
through life be like without islanders - eh?
Oh well .......... I gotta move on. Now a three to
four week toil to try to get the 3,000 miles to the Canary Islands by mid to
late October.
I am sure that without the distractions of the
shore you will hear from me daily - at least. Sorry but got to go right now I
need to tend to the sails and get the sail plan sorted now that I have cleared
the disturbance to the gradient wind caused by the high St Helena.
Keep these mails coming ...... rhiann {DOT} marie {CHANGE TO AT} gaelforce {DOT} net
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