Birthday Dance
Rhiann Marie - Round the World
Stewart Graham
Wed 12 May 2010 18:43
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May 12th 0745 local time 1745 UTC
15:57.24S 145:04.13W
Having arrived in the atoll of Kauehi on Saturday
we anchored overnight and had a great sleep. Trish had not enjoyed the fast
passage down and the permanent "pedal to the metal" sail, so I took almost all
the watches with Trish giving me a couple of hours on the second night. That's
fine be me as in the open ocean I am happy to have twenty minute cat
naps in between thorough visual look outs and with two radar alarm zones
set. This backed up with an hour or two during the day is
enough.
Sunday was my birthday and Trish and I went
exploring the coral reef with the dingy in the morning. Just as we were
about to go back to the boat we spied something black in the water. On approach
it turned out to be 1,2,3 4! manta rays. They seemed to be going through some
kind of ritual - mating we think. One or two would turn over on their backs
for the very large one and they would approach at the surface - head to head
a couple of feet apart. One seemed to be courting our dingy and
we were surrounded by them at close quarters. We got good video footage
though we are not sure about the quality of our photos. In the evening
Trish made a wonderful steak and vin rouge dinner with caramelised bananas
and ice cream desert. Delish.....
The next day we were exploring ashore and trying to
seek out a visit to a pearl farm or even to buy some black pearls. Our extensive
door knocking and questioning took us back to the small store where we
discussed this with the owner who said "OK come with me" (probably that's what
she said - I have almost no French and absolutely no Tahitian). Off we
went over to her house where after a time she got out a poly bag containing
over two and a half thousand black pearls! Her friend Carmen who was with her
said this was only one bag she had many many bags!
During our visit Nocole proudly told us she was 53
and was interested to know how old we were and I got my age wrong ( a year too
old! ) and we explained that it had been my birthday the day before and I was
not yet up to speed.
To be clear these pearls are the
"imperfects" ALL the perfects go to Tahiti and none apparently are
available locally. We were having fun with Nicole and Carmen, who had been
picking flowers, over a coffee and lunch sifting through the pearls, when
she asked if we had been to the "restaurant". "No" we replied but we would
like to go. She made a few calls and spoke with Colette. Dinner was arranged at
Colette's and we agreed that along with a Canadian couple at the anchorage who
we invited along that we would be collected by Colette at 1730 at the end
of the jetty.
Colette was beautiful and everything you might
imagine a beautiful polynesian woman to be - however all four of us were
awestruck by the beauty of her daughter who was with her. Bright clothes and skirt, long black hair in which she
wore a colourful Frangipani or Hibiscus flower - my memory is blinded by
the intensity of the image!
The transport to her home where she would cook
for us was in the back of her landrover for about 5 miles of track. However,
before leaving the village we stopped at Nicole's store and she and Carmen came
out and presented me with a floral leigh and kisses for my birthday! This
birthday was really being milked - a birthday party in Marquesas with our
friends, a birthday dinner and now this.......... well the best was yet to
come.
After the landrover ride we arrived at
a stunning polynesian house on the beach, which was to be our restaurant.
It was octagonal with open windows to the sea breeze. There was a high peaked
wooden ceiling and beams with a central "tree" pillar. The floor was dark hard
wood and the furniture was exquisite. We had been expecting a beach shack
and sandy floors or something - but not this elegant sophisticated environment.
The dinner was set out on a table with white table cloth and flowers everywhere.
Polynesian music played in the background.
Nanee the goddess like daughter was our waitress
and host while mum and dad cooked. When Nanee approached to ask a question she
would kneel down at your side and bring her head very close to your ear to
speak quietly to you, with bowed head and uplifted eyes, to ask her
question or relay her answer. This must be traditional - but traditional or not
I almost fell over when she knelt down and said that because it was my birthday
she was going to dance for me!!!!!!
Her dancing was mesmerising and not only did all of
our jaws fall open I was moved to emotion at the beguiling beauty of the dance
and the kindness of the gesture. As if that was not enough she danced a second
dance. She said her grandmother had taught her these traditional dances
- well that would be some granny whose hips
were attached to her spine with a universal joint!
The meal was fantastic and would not be out of
place in a Michelin starred restaurant - awesome and totally
unexpected. Ahhhhhhhh.............
On Tuesday after a visit ashore with some "thank
you" gifts we set off down the lagoon through the uncharted territory south of
the village. Trish took the helm while I was forward standing on the pulpit
pointing ourt directions for swerving through the "bommies" (coral heads )
almost breaking the surface. The journey was a little bit hairy at times but we
were rewarded with a Pacific paradise anchorage. No body or no boats for miles
the anchorage to ourseleves and surrounded by three deserted palmed sandy
islands. Lets hope we can work our way back out to the pass when we want to
leave!
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