Rounds of Applause?
Rhiann Marie - Round the World
Stewart Graham
Sun 28 Nov 2010 22:51
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Monday 29th November 0756 Local (but we're not sure
yet) 2226 Sunday 28th UTC
10:09.38S 123:34.47E
Kupang! Yesterday morning around 0800 I could just
make out Timor in the hazy distance to the north. It was confirmed an hour or so
later when the distinct smell of the land could be detected on the almost still
sea air.
We also started to notice for the first time for as
long as we can remeber the junk of everyday life appearing round the boat as
flotsam. Then Timor proper came into view. It was green and steep to. The green
and blue sky above was punctuated by many rising columns of smoke from the bush
which we can only presume to be fires in the many small rural and mountain
villages that make up Timor.
We carried a favourable current right into the
straits between Roti and Timor and entered the busy Selat Semau at about 1800.
There were 20 miles to go so it would be dark on our arrival in Kupang. The
route up through the Sealt Semau was interesting however. It was full of small
fishing boats with about 12 - 14 crew on each. They all stood on the roof of the
cabin or clung top thecross trees to spot fish, wherupon the would charge
fullsteam ahead to the spot and shoot a large ring net with the aid of the
smallest rowing boat you could imagine. For once all boats seemed to give way to
us, except those of course with their nets shot.
Most steamed towards us and the whole excited crew
would wave and shout. Many also gave us what appeared to be a round of
applause with hands clapping high above their heads. I don't know what
that was about - could it have been for Trish for getting this far sailing round
the world with me? No. I think they were impressed with Rhiann Marie. In
any event the happy smiles and waves bode well for our visit into the unknown
(to us) of Timor. It's hard to imagine these particular people could have been
so close to, subjected to or involved in so much brutality and killing over the
past few generations which took part mostly in East Timor - the other end of
their island.
The approach was fine though it is always hard to
pick out what,s going on against the background of city or town lights at
night. There were no useful navigation lights so it was just a case of radar,.
depth sounder and chart plotter. The chart plotter however, in contrast to
Australia where the GPS and electronic charts were very accurate, was not to be
trusted in Indonesia. We did not follow the GPS waypoint given to us by our
"agent" ashore as it would have had us half way up the high street in the
town!
The sights and sounds are already distinclty asian
and very much in contrast to Australia.
We are about to go ashore to go through the
paperwork which will apparently take 4 hours.
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