Island Hopping

Rhiann Marie - Round the World
Stewart Graham
Tue 16 Feb 2010 02:22
Monday 15th February 2140 local 0140 UTC   
 
12:01.19N 067:41.00W
 
The relentless progress west continued today when we sailed the 50 miles dead downwind, from Cayo de Agua in Los Roques to Sotavento in the Islas Aves.
 
Yesterday in Cayo de Agua we dingied over to Elbert Cay and Bequeve before returning for one of the best snorkelling expeditions we have ever had. It was really like being in a giant aquarium, with all kinds of colourful fish in their thousands including the giant parrot fish. 
 
Since leaving Antigua we have visited El Grande Roque, Francisquis, Noronquis, Sarqui, Carenero, Cayo de Agua, Elbert Cay and Bequeve in Los Roques and here in Islas Sotovento we have visited Isla Ramon, Isla Palmeras and Curricai. 
 
All of these islands are remote and windswept with nothing on them other than the odd fishermans camp. Round about they are teeming with fish and birds, and today we dingied into a small lagoon where at least 5 turtles scooted out of our way. The fishermen seem to rig up make shift camps and live on the beaches, I guess for the season. On one island today, Curricai,  they seemed to live in a series of 5 or 6 small tents right beside where it seemed there had been three small houses established, but which had subsequently been burnt down. I am guessing by the authorities.
 
Today I made a VHF call into coastguard who have a small station on Isla Sotavento. They did not answer my call, but 10 minutes later they called me in Spanish of course, but I was able to understand just enough to respond. However, just as my limited Spanish was running out an American guy came on to translate. I'm not sure yet whether he was in the station (hut) or was relaying to them. In any event he and they were very helpful.
 
Our plan is to leave here tomorrow for Bonaire about 40 miles away. As everything at the moment is downwind it is easy just to drop off the anchor and set sail. We have used our engine remarkably little really since we left Gibraltar and long may this continue!
 
From Bonaire we will probably sail the 110 miles to Aruba and stay the night before the 400 mile passage to Cartagena. This route is renowned, around Cabo de Vela, for high winds and big seas due to a semi permanent low based over Columbia and a high which is generally stting over the Caribbean causing a compression zone extending 200 miles out from the Columbian coast. This together with the equatorial current running in this direction makes for the potential of high sailing speeds but also very bad conditions and big seas. 
 
I was only made aware of these weather conditions about a month or so ago when I followed up a link on Noonsite which gave me a contact with a couple who have sailed this passge 4 times. They were etremely helpful and sent me an 80 page "pilot book" download. These weather and sea conditions, which are typical at this time of year have already been experienced by the Blue Water Rally and our friends aboard Nika, and we expect the same. Apparently wind speeds upto 55knots were experienced by one boat on the BWR and I think Nika had winds in the high 30 Knots.
 
While nobody likes these conditions, being forewarned is forearmed as they say. So I have no concerns its just a question of being prepared for it.