Red Sea Refugees

Rhiann Marie - Round the World
Stewart Graham
Wed 18 May 2011 05:44
Tuesday 18th May 0847 Local 0347 UTC
 
05:20.377S 072:15.587E
 
In the words of a Paul Simon song "Out in the Indian Ocean somewhere ..... " These words to me always conjured up the image which I believed would be realised on entering the Salomon Islands in the Chagos Archipelago.
 
Last night we just scraped into the atoll before sundown. We had initially had a close reach and then we were hard on the apparent wind for the rest of the three hundred mile passage. Our starboard gunnel was never dry for long. We were met by squall after squall and the passage was a bit lumpy and Trish was just as low as the starboard gunnel.....
 
However we had to drive on hard to make the anchorage by landfall last night and that is what we did. When you make a three hundred mile beat only then do you appreciate the off the wind trade wind sailing we enjoyed most of the way to Australia. And what about Dee Cafari going all the way round alone .... against the wind. Nails. Hard as.
 
Anyway we scraped in, not literally mind you, we had 1.7 metres under the keel and the coral was more than 5 metres away at times. We were confronted by the surprising sight of at least fifteen yachts anchored up where we had decided we would anchor! Unable to truly spot any bommies we just made a staright line to a staightforwatd anchorage, as always a bit out from the shore to ensure no bugs and that all of our chain gets to work regularly. The route chosen mind you showed no bommies on the direct path - just very close. 
 
What was going on with the yachts? I had dreamt we would have the whole place to ourselves! On speaking with one of the sailors this morning it turns out that just like us they are all "Red Sea Refugees". Though a lot of them left directly from Thailand some came through the Maldives but we were at the very end of the trail and had caught up with them. Many appear to have stayed here anchored up for over two months! Each day though it seems there are boats leaving for Mauritius, Rodriguez, Reunion or Madagascar. We will soon follow. 
 
At 0700 this morning we were woken by a neighbour yacht just to warn us that the yacht on the other side of us had no rudder and would be towed out by two RIBS at 0800. I dropped our RIB and went over to speak to Jeremy of Sunrise which is Freemantle registered, to offer any help we could. He explained that on Passage from Thailand they lost their rudder "luckily" only fifty miles out of Chagos. They were towed in by Marlin which is the boat contracted by the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office to be stationed here in Chagos. They anchored up and started negotiations with the Americans in Diego Garcia. This was a long process they said and with the death of Ossama bin Laden they said that security measures were ramped up a further level which further delayed the negotiations. Diego Garcia is a full on US military base and has all the facilities so their rudder can be fixed there.
 
However, and nobody likes a smart Alec, but...... two RIBS arrived to tow the 55' steel built deck saloon yacht. That is fine and of course needs must. But and I can only assume that this was a temporary measure to get them out of the atoll they rigged the two RIBS one either side of the high sided yacht along side near the stern. Each RIB was fitted with an "A" Frame. One very short line was rigged to the bow of Sunrise and one line rigged to the A-frame of Sunrise. I did not want to butt in, but if they go to sea with this the RIBS will be swamped and the A Frames will clash with the superstructure of Sunrise and in fact will but provide great steerage. My suggestion would be to rig two bridles off the stern of each RIB and have them connected through the bow of the yacht. The yacht should trim sail to the wind for its course and the RIBs head directly, one off each bow, to Diego Garcia. You see they are not towing the yacht simply acting as a rudder. But, they are American military so they are bound to know what they are doing ............... right?