Bula from Fiji!

Rhiann Marie - Round the World
Stewart Graham
Wed 18 Aug 2010 21:29
Thursday 19 August 0755 Local 1955 UTC (18th August)
 
16:46.61S 179:19.67E
 
Since arriving in Savusavu in Vanua Levu, Fiji on Sunday morning we have got many small boat jobs done, got to know the area and caught up with some friends in the anchorage.
 
We are just getting used to the novelty of having a longitude which is East of Greenwich and the long road home will be measured by the counting down of our easting as we continue west.
 
Fiji seems different from Tonga in many ways and again the trend to feeling a bit more Asiatic has continued. Fiji was once part of the "British Empire" as was India and in fact they still have Queen Elizabeth on their bank notes. Presumably due to the British link or as both countries were part of the commonwealth, after the second world war immigrations to Fiji from India began. There is now a huge population of Indians in Fiji and this of course has influenced the life and culture of the islands. Walking down the main street in Savusavu really feels like one is in Asia now and fine and cheap Indian food can be eaten everywhere. Fijian dress, with men often wearing the skirt wrap is prevalent and the sights and sounds of the markets now nod to asia. The political situation in Fiji is that they have been kicked out of the commonwealth after a military coup in the early new millenium. Several people I have spoken to however say that this coup has now given them a far better government than they had elected democratically and that they now get things done and that the government is for all ethnicities. For a truly representative view however I would need to take more soundings.
 
The Fiji we have visited so far is also far cleaner than Tonga which really was dirty and untidy. Yesterday after some morning diving we had been invited to visit a family in a Fijian village as they were having a family day and making a "lovo". This is small feast prepared in an underground oven and it was an honour to be invited.
 
The extended family took one day each month for them all to get together and clean and fix up their properties and then all celebrate the day. Village life in Fiji is strongly traditional and as a "valangi" we should visit the village cheif with our Sevusevu, which is a gift of Kava root. If accepted then permission is gained to walk around the village, swim, anchor and is requested specifically to fish for your own immediate needs only. Dress code and etiquette are very strict and sunglasses or hats must not be worn, bags should be carried in the hand and women should have shoulders covered and be wearing a long skirt past the knees. As guests in the village we were keen to conform and not upset anyone. The chief was not available on this occassion so another accepted the Sevusevu on his behalf with quite a ritual. No other gifts and especially not alcohol should be given at that time, as we would be the guests and displays of wealth or excess, "imbalances" the strict codes of etiquette and traditions that exist in the villages. We dont believe in giving alcohol to any of the village people we meet, despite regularly being asked for it. 
 
We were invited then to sit with the family we were visiting under the shady palms in the cool breeze blowing over the turquoise lagoon and the white sandy beach right through their simple and humble, but immaculate home. All sat together on the ground, with three generations all there and the work for the day done. All the dishes were in separate pots and we were encouraged to eat as much as we could. It was very tasty. After dinner we strolled round the incredibly well kept village and along the beach before returning to drink Yaquona (Kava) with the whole family. Like Tonga this is very ritualised and is a very quiet time for reflection and relaxation and there was little talking. It was a worderful day and it was an honour to be invited to such a tradional family gathering. In return, and as they showed such great interest in our yacht, we invited them to visit us today. It seems this caused great excitement and we are not sure just how many are coming but we will have three generations and we will have to ferry them back and fore to our tender in several loads. I am a bit worried most of the village will turn up! 
 
Our trip back from the village in the local bus was also an experience and added to what had already been a very interesting day. Tomorrow I hope to set off on a very adventurous trip round the remote and rarely visited north of Vanua Levu. The navigation there however is challenging to say the least and some of the feedback we have had about our intentions have been preceded with a sharp intake of breath!   
 
 

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