Lousy Lautoka - Arrival of the Toad

Quartermoon
Mike Share & Sammy Byron
Sat 4 Sep 2010 23:01
Well we didn't quite make it to Beqa Island. Something to do with checkout taking too long. That's after I finally got up at 2pm after yet another night out with Willem and Mads in downtown Suva. The evening started nicely with 3 couples having a drink aboard "Go Beyond" then sushi; But started to go south as soon as the ladies left about 11pm. All I remember were several clubs and an oath of secrecy!
 
So we finally left Suva a day late and the forecast wasn't very pleasant. 25 knot winds and big seas - just the sort of weather to do an overnight passage! We planned to stop at an anchorage on the Coral Coast but the winds would have meant a lee shore and the light was too bad to risk entry through the reef (no markers anywhere here - by far the worst place to navigate so far). So we battened down the hatches and I prepared for more evil looks than I thought possible - Oops!
 
It has to be said the night sail was probably in the top 3 most unpleasant sailing experiences this trip. Not particularly dangerous but big waves breaking on the beam and just very wet, windy and rolly. We decided to stay a way offshore to get to the Nadi passage at first light. On arrival the charts were spot on and we could easily have entered at night. Still you never know with new places so caution is the name of the game here. We were both knackered so pulled up in a little bay and anchored for a few hours of sleep before heading to Nadi to meet Jez (aka Toad) who was arriving that evening. We had a great sail to the airport, cruising at 7 knots just under head sail and we were both surprised by how different this end of the island is from Suva - quite barren hills like California Central Valley as opposed to lush rain-forest.
 
    
 
We anchored in 30 knots of breeze in a supposedly protected bay near the airport and had about 20 minutes to clear the boat up and empty the spare cabin for Jez. The spare cabin is our dumping ground for all our crap so it was floor to ceiling in bikes, BBQ and assorted stuff, looked like Jez would be sleeping on deck for his first night  ;-)
 
Sammy transformed the boat in record time and I picked up Jez from the jetty. It is great to see Jez, even greyer than I remember him - apparently that's kiddo #2 for you! It was even better watching him unpack 8 jars of Branston Pickle & 15 packets of Lindt Chocolate  ;-)
 
 
Next morning we headed to Latouka to officially check-in for the west side of Fiji. Very little wind so we motored the whole way. Body dragging was the activity of the trip which was fun. First impressions were that the place was a shit hole and going ashore only confirmed this more! Anyhow we managed to have a really nice Chinese meal and a few beers before returning to the boat for some Ali-G and a few G&T's.
 
   
 
This morning we got some supplies and got the hell out of there! We are now inbound to Waya in the Yasawa Island Group. It's stunning with some interesting rock formations resembling Yosemite that I can't wait to get scrambling on. We have to perform Sevu Sevu with the Chief shortly so that should be interesting and we may be drinking Cava tonight. At least the numbness will take away my sore throat!
 
 
3 of our friend's boats are heading this way in the next day or 2 and Jez has plenty of kite-surfing gear so should be a fun few days....
 
End of Essay, bye for now!  
 
PS: Missing Beqa actually turned out to be blessing in disguise. Our friends who did go there could not leave the boat as they had 50 knots of wind all day. That night their dinghy was flipped, outboard and all.