Western Islands of Fiji
Quartermoon
Mike Share & Sammy Byron
Tue 14 Sep 2010 23:00
|
Bula! We're finally back online....
It seems a long time ago that we were
picking up Jez from the airport, checked in at Lutoka and then headed
out to the islands. We decided to head for the Yasawa group (more remote and
less developed than the Mamanucas) and first stop was the island of Waya. The
passage was interesting, we passed many islands, sand cays and unmarked
reefs which reinforced how alert you have to be when navigating here.
Most beacons and marks on the charts are missing and at high tide you can't
even see the reefs without overhead sun and good sunnies. There was very little
wind so it was a motor all the way and I think Jez finished his first book of 5
on that trip! The low-light was losing a Wahoo as
it was being hauled over the rail.; really annoying as we had already figured
out how to cook it!
We made it to Waya as the light was
fading and after finding most other spots unsuitable, anchored just off the
village school in the bay (mainly due to reef and a fat Kiwi
Hell's Angel). Our friends on Tangaroa joined us just as it got dark
and we were the only boats in the bay. Perfect and just what we were
looking for.
 Next morning the 7 of us headed ashore to
offer Cava to the Chief of the village. We were finally ushered into a hut and
the Sevu Sevu ceremony began. Lots of clapping and an occasional mention of
England, Australia and Holland ensued. It appears that we had placated the Chief
enough with 2 bunches of mildly narcotic roots to be allowed free passage on the
island. We had a walk around the traditional village and the beach then I made
the mistake of saying that I wanted to climb the tall mountain. Before I knew it
we had an appointment with 62 year old Tui the next morning for a short
hike. Not quite what I had in mind but the view from the top of the ridge
was amazing. Tui was a really interesting and hospitable host who told us a
lot about the island and his family. Apparently his Mum passed away at 78 free
diving for lobster! Tui took off into the vegetation and came back with a
pile of wild lemons for our Gin and Tonic habit that we seem to have taken up
since Jez joined us!
 Unfortuantely the wind gods were not answering
Jez's prayers and he was climbing up the walls as the wind wasn't
quite enough to get kite-surfing. But that afternoon we did dinghy to a sand
spit, get the kite flying and go for a drag. I am still kicking myself for not
getting some kite gear organised before this trip...
 Next day we headed up to the second island
group of the Yasawas and stopped at the southern end at an island called
Drawaqa. Tangaroa joined us so it was nice to sail in
convoy. It was pretty windy and we were beating to windward (a first
in a long time) but QM sailed really well. Again we had to avoid all the
unmarked and uncharted reefs but we still managed to catch a small-ish Spanish
Mackerel. Jez gutted it and we had it pan-fried for dinner, it was excellent!
The anchorage was by a pass between 2 islands and had some amazing
snorkeling right off the boat. Sammy & I went for a scramble up the
cliffs as the rocks looked irresistible for a climb. Jez sat on his ass
stating that he never gets time to read anymore! (3rd book!) That night
we went ashore to a nearby resort and had a great dinner (Thanks Jez) and
watched the local dancing (with neck-breaking war clubs, honestly the locals are
friendly....).
 Next day we decided to beat the tourist boats and
head to the pass, where if you are lucky you can swim with Manta
Rays. It was amazing - I have never actually been slapped in the face
before by a Manta Ray! Weird (yes that's honestly a Dutch name) and
myself had a couple of Manta's swimming so close to us we could stroke them.
They would roll and swim upside down right next to us and were making eye
contact and brushing against us, it was amazing. The male was about 3m wide and
the female a little smaller. Jez, Sammy & I took it in turns in the dinghy
to take each other up into the current so we could drift snorkel back through
the pass and watch them. The coral was very good too and there were even
some black-tip sharks at the drop off.
 That afternoon we planned to head up to Somosomo
village (North of Naviti island) but the wind was head on and the wind chop was
annoying. Being fair weather sailors we decided to bail and headed south to
Waya (the wind had got up and Jez was
like a kid of Xmas Eve...). I was mildly disappointed as there is a sunken WWII
aircraft you can snorkel and free dive on where we were headed but you can't do
everything. Anyway we headed back into Waya, anchored up near the sand spit and
got the kite set up. Jez had a good few hours wrecking his new board on the
coral and riding it like he stole it (that's what a Melbourne winter does
to you). I got some good shots of him that make him look way better than he
really is (ha ha ha).
 Next came my go. Bear in mind I had 1 go at
flying the kite without a board in Melbourne about 2 years ago, so I was sure I
was ready to try with the board this time. The launch site was a sand spit with
shallow coral for abt 200m out and rocks both sides - perfect for
beginners! Anyhow I kind off got up and going a few times only to sink into the
water but managed to water start. At one point I was flying towards
Quartermoon (the only obstacle in the whole bay) like we were magnetised.
Whichever way I "steered" the damn boat kept following me so I (apparently) did
a kite loop, crashed and twisted the lines so badly it was "lesson" no. 2 well
and truly over. When you are up and going it feels amazing, a cross between
wakeboarding, surfing and wind-surfing. I think I will have to get some gear
sorted when back in Oz.
We re-anchored in the head of the bay for the
night and the wind got stronger and stronger - gusting 35 knots but offshore at
least. As we should have guessed the wind swung around 180 degrees about 10pm so we had to up anchor and re-set, so
as to avoid ending up on the reef overnight. The Pacific has constant
reminders of those not so lucky.... We have seen 2 trashed yachts in 2
days here. One new one on it's side on the beach and another in pieces all over
the reef/beach. It's quite disconcerting!
Luckily we were still there the next morning
so we set sail for Navadra - an island between the Yasawa's and the Mamanuca's.
Here we met Norwegian friends Mads & Elin + family on "Go Beyond" and
Bob, a Kiwi who swam over and invited himself aboard to introduce
himself! A deaf 60+ guy who has been sailing these waters since the 60's when he
had no charts, depth sounder, GPS etc. A few other boats turned
up - spur of the moment beach fire ensued with a huge fire and great
BBQ. Oh and a few litres of cava enjoyed with our own knock-off
ceremony!
 We spent the day snorkeling and exploring the
island. The coral was amazing but the fish life and viz could have been better.
(Sammy & I have decided we have been spoilt and cannot enjoy diving in 99.8%
of the world any more.) Go Beyond left and "A Small Nest" turned up. It was
great to see them again so we had another beach fire and a few
G&T's.
 Jez's wife Lisa and kiddo's
hadn't been too well, so he brought his return flights earlier and we had to
think about getting back to civilisation. What with indecision being the key to
flexibility, we were all but rigid in our plans. We decided to head to Castaway
Resort on some Island so Jez could get a fast ferry connection back to the
mainland. His time onboard was coming to an end all too soon so we discussed
this over a few beers in the sunset bar at Happy Hour whilst watching one of the
best sunsets I've ever seen. He then insisted on buying us dinner which was
fantastic - macadamia encrusted rack of lamb and fillet steak with pepper sauce.
A real treat after life onboard for so long.
 After that sort of bribery we
couldn't stick him on a boat, so next morning we set sail (read: motored
due to no wind) for Denerau Marina near Nadi airport. Arriving just in
time, we said goodbye over a few
beers at the Hard Rock Cafe and were very sad to see him hopping away to the
cab. It was great having
old webbed feet onboard and we really look forward to having Lisa and the
kids onboard when we are back in Oz.
|