Bora Bora
Quartermoon
Mike Share & Sammy Byron
Wed 21 Jul 2010 04:27
|
We decided to move a further 30nm West and
visit the infamous Bora Bora. I had seen posters years ago in Paris and
always thought it looked incredible, yet had heard recently from friends that it
was a bit of a disappointment in reality. Possibly due to the clichéd
honey-mooners everywhere and bungalow
resorts now adorning every bit of sand.
 The sail over was one of the nicest we've had in a
while; sunshine, moderate swell and 25 knots from behind ensured a good
pace and a bit of relaxation. If only we'd left Taha'a earlier! We got caught up
helping re-stock the Yacht Club bar which meant we left stupidly
late.... Our well laid plans evaporated as the pass entrance was still a
way off and we only had an hour of daylight left. A dark entry into the lagoon
was exactly why we had gone to Taha'a in the first place!
The approach to the island is truly stunning, the
jagged volcanic peaks rise up from an almost entirely encompassing fringe reef
with just one pass. It was strange to be miles off the land and find cardinal
marks and breaking waves way out to sea where the reef ends. The actual land
mass is tiny compared to the area of the lagoon and motu's. The islands are much
smaller than the Marquesas but equally stunning with the added benefit of reef
protection and amazing lagoons.
Luckily, just before dark we got the last buoy at the Bora Bora Yacht Club;
handy as the lagoon is almost too deep for us to anchor and we
didn't fancy any night reef navigation! We had barely got the dinghy off the
deck when we were invited over to Stray Kitty for Margarita's - the best kind of
welcome!
We were keen to see the island so next day we biked
the entire coast road stopping off for swims and amazing views here and there.
There are heaps of over-the-top resorts for the super-rich but also a low key,
real life side to the island where the locals live and you don't see any
tourists. Most of the resorts do blend well with the environment albeit
with the guests hidden away from island culture by walls and fences.
   We happened upon a traditional dance and music
practice and watched a local couple preparing for the finals that night in the
main town square, a giant sand-pit by the dock. They were so amazing we went to
watch the finals and enjoyed a few beers with some Dutch friends. It was so
nice to be part of a local festival and great fun.
Next day, with slightly sore heads we went for an
explore of the lagoon by dinghy. We saw a small resort boat leaving somewhere in
the middle of nowhere so went over to investigate. I drifted over some coral
heads and onto a huge sand bar about 1m deep and we were about to give up when
about 30 large sting rays came over to say hello! (to get fed more likely) It
was amazing how tame they were, coming so close you could stroke them. They
stayed with us for half an hour or so then disappeared to sting ray
McDonalds.
As we have met more and more boats along the way,
it's now hard to go far without coming across a boat that you know and you
have to stop and say hello. On the way back we said Hi to 4 or 5 boats and
arranged to go climbing the next day with a guy from Sunboy - a Coff's Harbour
boat. Mt. Pahia is 700m high and very steep. Being the second highest peak on
Bora Bora, the views promised to be stunning if the sun was out. We'd had a bit
of rain and heard the trail and rocks were pretty impassable in the wet. Luckily
next day was clear so we set off early from the dock. A track led through
plantations to the foot of the vegetated cliffs and then the fun started! The
"trail" was basically scrambling straight up rocks and mud, using vines and
occasionally ropes. The dry rock was good for climbing but the muddy and
vegetated bits were like skating. Many hours later, we came out on a very
steep ridge and scrambled our way to the summit which was just like a
proper peak with scary drops. Then we noticed the next peak - just down the
other side, across a knife edge ridge and straight up another ridge! All the
while battling through thick vegetation and scrambling over bare rock. We made
the real summit and the views were out of this world. Better than a helicopter
flight as we had an hour or more to enjoy them over lunch!
 Coming down was hard work. We all slipped and cut
ourselves, bashing into rocks and abseiling down vines, sliding down the mud and
burning hands on the ropes. Needless to say the legs hurt today!
 Tomorrow we may take the boat round the other side
and anchor on the Motu's. Or we may head to Maupiti island, 30 miles away where
the diving with Manta Ray's is supposed to be some of the best in the world. Or
even Apituake, or Palmerston Atoll 700 miles West in the Cook Islands.
Decisions, decisions!....
|