Aore Resort and Santo - Vanuatu
Quartermoon
Mike Share & Sammy Byron
Sun 17 Oct 2010 02:33
We had a nice motor sail
round to Aore resort and came into the Segond Channel between Tutuba island and
Million Dollar Point where we had dived previously. Here the Americans had
dumped millions of dollars worth of military equipment in the sea at the end of
the war. Apparently the equipment was offered to the French & British hugely
incompetent coalition New Hebrides government at the time. At 10% of cost the
equipment was a bargain but they had declined assuming it would be
left behind anyway. Not so! The Americans built a jetty and bulldozed
trucks, boats, fork lifts, tanks etc into the drink. Still makes for a very
interesting dive....
Aore Resort was much as we remembered it, very
simple traditional bungalows on the beach in really nice surroundings. We
took a mooring almost in front of where we had stayed. It was great to be there
as we both remembered looking at the one yacht there before and saying how we'd
love to cruise this area in our own boat. And now we are doing just that and it
is even better than we thought it would be. Vanuatu is, wait for it....,
probably our equal favourite cruising are with the Tuamotus. The islands are
dramatic, lush and stunning and the people are so genuine and
friendly.
Unfortunately not long after we arrived it began to rain. In
fact it pissed down for the next 4 days, so much so that we fairly well ran out
of dry clothes ;-( Good job most of our time was
under the water or catching up on DVD's and playing cards below deck.... We did
manage to get some time by the pool though! We also learned another card game on
Ghost with yet another delightful name: Arsehole. Sammy was ecstatic that after
winning the first 5 games, I then lost every single one thereafter.
We used the dinghy to get over to Luganville and back, took
about 10 minutes as the channel is quite wide between Aore and Santo. We called
in to Aquamarine to arrange the diving and they have their own dock which made
life much easier. It also meant that hopefully the dinghy would still be there
after a day's diving whereas on the town dock, who knows?!.... Rehan who runs
Aquamarine is a 25 year old Indian and a real character. I knew I would like him
when he was trying to power slide the minibus on a dirt road, cigarette in one
hand, beer in the cup holder. And all achieved with full Indian accent
but minimal head wobbling!
The other great thing about Aquamarine is the huge waterfront
garden with BBQ so the 8 of us that were diving together got to use the place
for parties most nights! The BBQ is a huge ship hatch that is so thick
that you need to light an inferno underneath. We had a feast there
last night of local steaks, sausages, chicken with plenty of music and vodka.
The dinghy ride home was fun and apparently I brushed my teeth twice in about 5
minutes as I didn't remember doing them the first time.....
Another interesting experience in Luganville are the Cava
bars. Cava is a drink made from plant roots that are ground into a powder and
mixed with cold water. The resulting liquid looks like muddy water and
tastes how I imagine bark pressings to taste - quite woody and
not particularly pleasant. The good news is it makes your mouth numb and
after a few you don't really care what it tastes like. The Cava in Vanuatu is
the strongest in the Pacific. It's a very traditional social activity that takes
place on most of the Pacific island groups and all the local men (no women)
mix with the ex-pats under a collection of thatched seating areas to
talk. The bar is a bench in a hut where you order a small or large
coconut shell of Cava for 50c or 1$ AUD. I found it made me pretty unsociable
and I just wanted to go home to bed!
At the Cava bar we met our old dive
guide Alfred from 3 years ago. We recognised each other after a few not-so-sure
glances (he now has 2 front teeth, when we met him they'd been kicked
out) and it was really great to see him. He was very happy to see us too
and we spent most of the night talking to him about life in Vanuatu. Turns
out he now works at the dive centre on Aore and it was him that had been
repairing our mooring when we turned up!
Sadly today we hoisted the sails and are en route to the
Loyalty Islands off New Caledonia. We are both quite sad to leave Vanuatu and it
has definitely not disappointed. We love it here, probably our equal favourite
place with the Tuamotus. If only we had longer before the hurricane
season....
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