Tanna, Vanuatu
Quartermoon
Mike Share & Sammy Byron
Sat 25 Sep 2010 22:10
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Well here we are, the only boat in Port
Resolution. We came in late Thursday night and there were 11 boats here, not
sure what we've done to make them all leave!
  We had a pretty nice sail here, initially it was
very rolly due to the huge swells coming up from the South seas but as the swell
and wind calmed down it was really nice sailing. We came past the island of
Futuna in daylight and considered stopping there but our charts showed no real
anchorages - it's basically a volcano rising very steeply out of the deep. We
decided to go for a night entry into Tanna as we had waypoints to dodge the
reefs. From about 30nm out we were entertained to a spectacular fireworks
display with the volcano spewing out red flames and lighting up the
night sky. We anchored easily under the light of the volcano and full moon
and caught up with some well needed sleep.
With morning we saw the full beauty of Port
Resolution. A very volcanic bay with volcano steam vents and hot
springs coming out of the jungle. The water isn't crystal clear but the
surrounding reefs are beautiful live coral (actually quite different to what
we've seen before) and in excellent condition with lots of caves and
tunnels under the reef. The local village is probably the most traditional we've
seen in the whole Pacific (read 3rd world). The roads are dirt tracks and all
the huts are traditional wood and palm frond. The locals are really friendly and
happy to trade not sell. We lent a local a few DVD's and in return he gave us a
pile of beans, onions, paw paw and so on.
 Yesterday we were wandering about the village
waiting for Emma to arrive when Sammy offered to help a local woman with
her bags, water bottles etc as she had 2 young kids with her. A nice gesture but
if she's leaving the village just how far are we going to walk with her?! Her
village was about 4km away, luckily she was only going to the "garden" about
2kms away. So we carried her bags and chatted whilst getting deeper and deeper
into the jungle. Literally tramping through banana trees and tall grass with no
path as such, we wondered how the hell we were going to get back! We finally
emerged into a kind of clearing with all sorts of things growing. Docie started
shouting for her husband who appeared like a black warrior in just a pair of
shorts, wielding a machete from the jungle. We said Hello and got handed
some sugar cane and the machete to start feeding the kids who were pretty
addicted to the stuff. Actually it tastes really good when you chew it.... and
even better in a Cuba Libre! As a thank-you Dolcie started weaving a basket from
palm fronds and filling it with cherry tomatoes, Chinese cabbage, lettuce,
bananas, spring onions, taro etc. Then the 5 year old shimmied about 10
feet up a paw-paw tree and expertly picked off a ripe one, caught it and passed
it down to me - very cute! Sammy is also now the proud owner of a traditional
ceremonial grass skirt and some feathers for the head-dress. Looks like I
will have to finish the coconut bra for her next fancy dress
costume....
  We wondered back into town getting stopped by
various locals along the way. Everyone is so friendly and wants to chat away. We
found Emma (6' white girl) sitting under a tree in the village field surrounded
by 10 or more local men. I think she was quite glad to see us appear with our
produce! We took the dinghy to a traditional rustic ladder leading up from
the hot springs and hiked up to a Volcano steam vent in the jungle. It's pretty
eerie watching the steam bellow out of a massive hole in the cliffs.... And as
we were quite high the view was amazing, looking across the bay
and headland out into the vast Pacific.
    A quick snorkel on the reef and it was back to the
boat for Rum punch in coconut-halves and BBQ pork chops. Mmmmm. Tonight we are
hiking up the Volcano; apparently it is spectacular and pretty frightening. We
have heard you run for cover when it starts erupting, you can get that close.
Sounds stupid but apparently it's safe and the closest you can get to an active
volcano anywhere in the world. Can't wait!
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