Well we haven't really moved much which has been
bliss.... and probably the first time on our trip so far. We are normally
having to move on after a few days so to have no time pressures is great.
We are still in Fakarava but we are now anchored at the South Pass which was
about a 30 mile motor sail inside the atoll. It is a pretty easy route with
navigation marks the whole way although you still need to keep a look out for
the coral pinnacles that appear from the deep.
We are loving it down here, very pretty and very
quiet. Only a small pension (a few bungalows on the water's
edge) and a dive centre. The coral and fish life is
stunning, so many fish swimming under the boat and sharks have now become as
common as trigger fish.
On arrival at the anchorage we were picked up by
our friends on another boat called Bamboozle and whisked off for a drift snorkel
which was sensational. We saw a huge and I mean huge manta ray and about 30 grey
sharks in a feeding frenzy. The current was pretty strong so we were literally
flying over the coral. G&T's for sunset and supper on Bamboozle made for a
We have had a lot of fun here so far, snorkeling,
diving and catching up with friends on various boats. We will probably tear
ourselves away early next week and head back up north. Mike is keen to dive the
North pass again plus we have completely run out of fresh food. French Polynesia
had a strike last week (Typical French!) so nothing was running, no flights, no
weather forecasts, no food deliveries etc. We will make tracks to Tahiti
probably at the end of the week when we have better weather. It has been
blowing 35 knots+ a few times which is not good with so many reefs all around us
but at least there are several boats here in the same situation in case anything
We woke up yesterday after a particularly windy
night and realised (when we finally got on deck as the weather was crappy) that
the dinghy was missing! Luckily some very kind friends from "Pickles" have
a fast dinghy and Joan took us looking for it all along the southern deserted
reef. After 2 hours and about 8 miles we gave up as the going back was going to
be even worse than getting there. Then in the distance amongst the waves what
did we spot? In the middle of nowhere, there it was! It's a huge relief to
have it back even though it won't start! Another reason to get to Tahiti
asap..... We felt pretty stupid about the whole thing but we have rescued a few
so far ourselves and apparently it's really not all that uncommon. We are
still amazed at how the sailing community really help each other out and the
acts of kindness have been amazing so far.
We'll post some more pics soon!