Exploring Bocas Del Toro

Quartermoon
Mike Share & Sammy Byron
Sat 23 Jan 2010 16:30

Bocas was unlike anywhere else we'd been so far on the Caribbean coast of Panama. Many bars, restaurants, young
people  ;-) and a good vibe. It was a welcome respite after too long around Colon and the frustrations we had
encountered on the way. We felt as though Bocas didn't want us to visit, so finally arriving was great! We had arrived
late afternoon and just cracked open a beer when our friends Steve and Lili came over to say Hello (who were at the
same anchorage). That night we hit the town... A decent meal and too many beers and cuba libres were consumed,
resulting in hangovers (hard to believe but the first in 3 months I think!) and a lazy following day.

We dug out the bikes and went for some much needed exercise out to the Bluff - a well known surf spot - where we
had to carry the bikes a few times thru' streams, mud bogs and the sea but it was worth it. We swam on a pretty
well deserted beach (deserted because it had probably swept all previous victims away...) then found an awesome
surf lodge up the cliff in the jungle overlooking the surf. The fish for lunch was consumed with much vigour!

We decided to leave the bright lights of Bocas for Isla Bastimentos (known to me as Bob island) where we'd heard
reports of a lower key scene. Low key it wasn't. Pounding bass well into the night. But no Ianapa - this was
strictly local music and it blasted the whole bay - yet another Panamanian holiday! Sammy wanted to see some damned
organic cafe/shop at the top of hill in the jungle. My idea of fun in 100% humidity and who knows what heat....
Sammy was delighted to find the owner was from Aberdeen - pretty self explantory really - who else would have
camped up the hill on Bast Island 8 yrs ago in the jungle to build a hill top cafe?....

From there we slipped and slid our way down the hill through cow shit and plantations to wizard beach which supposedly
has good surf. Sometimes maybe but not that day! It was nice but not like an Oz beach.

After we had enjoyed local Thai and organic cocoa we dragged ourselves down to Hospital Bight (so called because of
all the ship wrecked survivors cut to death on the coral reefs maybe?) as we obviosuly needed a navigational challenge.
Took Quartermoon through the Gap (a narrow channel thru the mangroves) and the depth finder read alarmingly low but
we made it out the other side. When we felt brave we snorkelled in the mangroves which have coral hanging from the
 roots) and saw an amazing Eagle Ray. Not wishing to become lunch for a passing Bull Shark, we decided a drink was
in order and headed to an idyllic resort called Punta Caracol where Sammy and her parents had stayed 9 yrs earlier.
(Yep I am not a cutting edge traveller in these parts). We enjoyed some rum punch and a few beers then swam from the
 bar. Customers must have been a novelty to the staff as they waited on us hand and foot and we didnt see anyone
else there - maybe due to the very 1st world prices!

It was very quickly time to head back to Shelter Bay to meet my folks so we decided to head out via Crawl Cay.
Unfortunatrely we did crawl through it and the wind blew us off course whilst navigating a narrow channel, nearly onto a reef!
That was the second time thatday the depth guage had read 0.0m that day after Bocas Marina fuel dock! I changed my
shorts and we went snorkelling, only to be almost run over (seriously) by a blase "tour boat" skipper who didnt expect
us to be there. Spent the night at Zapatilla Keys (cool name or what?) which is a match for the San Blas islands.
I turned into Akio and collected much crap, obviously all needed. I left with 2 coconuts, a funnel, some hard wood
and a message in a bottle....

Trip back to SBM started boring - no wind whatsoever so we motored most of the way and had a few deep water swims. Wind
kicked in at 6am so had bacon and eggs and a great sail the rest of the way.

Started planning the 2 day turn around and where to store enough beer for my parents imminent arrival.....

 

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