A Week in Saumlaki Yamdena Island
Blue Hound
Phil Marks & Rosy Jensen
Wed 16 Nov 2022 08:14
Our week in Saumlaki went quickly. Time was taken up by organising SIM cards, (much easier than Australia!), diesel and petrol in jerry cans, which required a 'special person' as the petrol station does not allow dispensing into cans, & market cruising for fruit and veg. Sunday lunch at the hotel of excellent prawns & squid, we were unsure about the swamp cabbage (see menu). At the end of the week Phil enjoyed an hour or so with the officials for the required check out. (lots of stamping of paperwork)
Nilis organised a trip for us with his friend (also Nilis) who has a car. (we are in scooter land). We drove to the other side of the island to the village of Sangliat to see a Stone Boat. Full sized replicas of the boats that had bought the settlers here 500 years ago were built with individual stones similar in construction to a Cotswold wall. This example was the best one remaining on the island. There were 122 steep steps carved in the rock down to the beach, which was almost more awe inspiring than the boat. The village layout was based on the original boat and depending on the ancestors position in the boat determined the position of his house in the village. (helmsman at the back, oarsmen at the side etc). At festivals the descendants take up their hereditary positions in the stone boat.
Before seeing the stone boat the old tradition is to request permission from the village elder (in this village a hereditary position). Nilis woke him up and we entered his house, a small financial transaction took place & a water bottle containing Sopi (made from sugar palm) was placed in front of the Elder. A brief ceremony followed to placate the ancestral spirits and we drank sopi from the communal cup. (Sopi is about 40% proof).
At Tumbar village we were asked to visit the Mayor's office and sign the visitors book. The village is known for its wood carvings and traditional weaving (Ikat). We went to one house with many wood carvings of traditional sailing ships and rowing boats which were impressive, & I was happy to find a red woven runner (with Christmas in mind) but I think the weaver had other ideas (see photo)
We have just arrived in Tual, Kei Islands after two nights anchored in bays. More calling to prayer, a bigger town so there is competition!
Photos:
A row boat bridge
Bikes everywhere
Village Elder in orange with two smiling Nilis
The stone boat
Village entrance/architecture
Phil with the Mayor's officials
Rosy with the 'runner'.
