Puerto Rico,
Boqueron 18:01.00 N 67: 10.50 W
We
stayed in Puerto Rico for just over one month and we both enjoyed it so much
that I thought I’d do a complimentary blog to Sarah’s, to fill in some of the
details.
Puerto
Rico….Isla del
Encanto… the Island of Enchantment was discovered in modern times by The Admiral
of all Oceans, Christopher Columbus on 19th November 1493. The island
was originally named ‘Bautista’ in honour of John the Baptist and the principal
port was named Puerto
Rico meaning Rich
Port.
The
island is 110 miles long by 35 miles wide and is home to 4,000,000 people. Yes
that is four million in an area smaller than Argyll. Legend has it that the
Tainos Indians who were here when Columbus arrived, between 30,000 to 60,000 of
them, were wiped out by western diseases, whooping cough and smallpox, and the Spanish Conquistadors who wanted
to enslave these peaceful Indians.
However a DNA survey carried out in 2004 contradicts this entirely with
four fifths of the population being able to trace their DNA directly to the
Tainos Indians. Apparently one fifth have traces of African DNA from the days of
slavery but this as far as we could see is not borne out by the cross section of
the population as there are virtually no Afro-Caribbeans here.
On
25th
July 1898 during the
Spanish-American War, American troops invaded the island with the loss of fifty
American and fifty Spanish troops. No Puerto Ricans were injured.
America
claimed the island as a war prize and the island was ceded to the
USA at
the Treaty of Paris. In 1917 all Puerto Ricans were granted American citizenship
and that is still the case today with many Puerto Ricans going to the states for
their working lives then returning to PR for their retirement.
One
of the reasons that we were so taken by the place is the out and out
friendliness of all concerned. We have never waved so much from the boat in all
our lives and when ashore everyone has a smile and a hello and are interested in
chatting.
Eating out was almost as cheap as cooking on board so we ate ashore
frequently. The main industry here is fishing, with Tuna, Lobster and Conch
being the main catch. In fact lobster is so plentiful here that it is cheaper
than beef. When eating at one of the little restaurants or mobile vans, the fare
was always the same with Esculadillos (imagine a Cornish pastie made of filo
pastry) being the main choice of the locals. There is usually a selection
of Lobster,shrimp,conch,fish,chicken or beef, each one being almost a meal on
it’s own and costing £1. Bev and I ate ashore the other day for £3.80 for both
of us.
With being part
of America the
island benefits from the first world necessities as regards hospitals, schools
and basic infrastructure. There are three lane highways connecting the major
cities and on the journey to drop Sarah and Will off at the airport I found
myself driving on a seven lane highway. A nightmare you might imagine but the
driving here is amiable and good natured though a little chaotic as there is no
lane discipline. There are virtually no crossings on the roads and the reason
for that is that as soon as a pedestrian even looks like he may think of
crossing then the queue of traffic comes to a halt. We Brits could learn a lot
from the American style of driving, I’m pretty sure that Road Rage has never
been heard of here.
After the
departure of Sarah and Will we stayed on at Salinas for
another week attending a cruisers Pot Luck and suffering from a cold that we
were initially blaming on Sarah until we found the culprit, an American called
Randy. Hey he could have been called Scooter or Elmer! We were sad to leave
Salinas but
we must make our way west to be in the States for
May.
We sailed
initially to Cayos de Cana Gorda or Gilligan's
Island as
the Americans call it, another State park with thousands of acres of mangroves
which make for fantastic flat anchorages. We stayed there for a couple of days
as Bev had by this time come down with the same nasty cold. We then had a super
sail around the south west corner to Bahia de Boqueron, a lovely bay encircled
by sandy beaches. Then it was on up north to Mayaguez, a town of one hundred
thousand people and an uninspiring industrial bay, to clear customs and
Immigration and set off on our first ocean passage in over a year, the 370
miles (you cannot take a direct route because of huge reefs) to the Turks and
Caicos
Islands.