More vet adventures-Bequia to Grenada

Swiftwing
Thu 8 May 2008 13:53
And so we continue the story of vets on board Swiftwing. The next island to be invaded was Bequia-here we took an island tour by taxi; visiting 'Old hegg Turtle Sanctuary' (mentioned in earier blogs) but not the freshly killed whale on a nearby beach that they were all so desperate to show us. The locals get a 2 whale quota per year! We enjoyed an early evening swim and watched the sunset from Princess Margaret beach, before a very damp Doody journey back to boat as Dougie thought it was entertaining to take the bung out halfway back to Swiftwing! Bev was not impressed!! The day finished with a visit to the recommend "Devil's Table" minus Bev and Dougie, who elected to send John as our chaperon. A few Pina Coladas later and Heather was having a dance off with the local Rasta man. Star jumps, the one legged chicken dance and the standard break-dance move left all the locals clapping! All made it safely back to the ship, thanks to the wind up torch, that and John remembering where we were anchored!
 
A morning wake up chorus of Black Sabbath and we were on our way to the celebrity hangout Mustique. We stopped at a tiny deserted island called Petit Nevis for Elevenses and the most stunning snorkelling experience: sparkling blue sea, intensely bright tropical fish and corals-and no other tourists to share it with. Amazing!! On Mustique we had a wander round the hugely over-priced shops-only the postcards were within our price range!! We also had a dip at one of the nearby beaches where the water reached our knees no matter how far out we went and we had to punt Doody halfway back to Swiftwing due to the shallow reefs. Once back at the boat Dougie instigated a dive-bombing competition off the rail. After dinner we dropped in at Basil's-they really weren't used to A-list celebs like the Swiftwing crew: usual regulars include Mick Jagger, Hugh Grant, David Bowie, Liz Hurley and Tommy Hilfiger. The locals were really friendly and after John took Dougie and Bev back to the boat one of Basil's barmen escorted 'the young ones' to a nightclub for locals up in the village. It has a VIP room and everything although we didn't quite qualify for that!The next morning we took a taxi tour of the island as the don't do Mule hire on a Sunday. Our Rasta guide called Boomboom(!!) took us up through the same local village and we noted that our 'nightclub' looked like little more than a chicken shed in the light of day!! He pointed out all the stars' houses along the way and we had a nosey over Mick Jagger's hedge but his driveway is so long and windy that we still a long way from his house! We were then dropped at Macaroni Bay for an hour, definitley the best beach of our trip so far! Palm trees, a long stretch of white sand flecked with pink coral and clear turqoise waters(to use Dougies favourite word!!). We even had it to ourselves for most for the hour-totally idyllic! We were back at the boat before midday and set straight off for Tobago Cays.
 
The wind had really picked up at this point and Swiftwing did her trip max of 8.5 knots. We were flying! Arriving at Tobago Cays to yet another reggae party, sadly this time we weren't invited. We decided to anchor here then took a recommended island tour courtesy of John, and after almost grounding ouselves on a coral reef in Doody 2 we finally made it to Island 1 under a serenade of 'Food Glorious Food' and other such Oliver classics. The Tobago Cays are a beautiful set of small deserted islands surrouded by a horse shoe reef. We thought a beach to ourselves on Mustique was great but here we had a whole island to ourselves! After an evening of star gazing and 'Walk the Line' at Cinema Swiftwing we continued our jouney onto Carriacou, via Union Island to clear customs. After a day of sailing sunbathing on deck and Kat attemping to snorkel in the dark we anchored off Sandy Island (a tiny island of reef, sand and a few trees, apparently its been used in a number of TV adverts) and settled to Film 2 in the Swiftwing Odeon- 'Memoirs of a Geisha' which Dougie especially enjoyed, despite asking at the end, "So what was that all about?!"
Carriacou marks the entry into the Grenada region so we keft Dougie to negotiate customs while we visited the local museum where we saw a bed pan-our excitement could barely be contained! En route to Grenada we manged to avoid Kick 'em Jenny an underwater volcano last active in 2003 and has a 1.5km exclusion zone (not that 1.5km clearance would help you if it erupted, as last time it caused a 900 foot water jet and a tsunami across Grenada!). A nice afternoon sailing alongside Grenada saw us cover 42 miles in approx 7 hours. As the sun sunk below the horizon we turned into Prickly Bay marina, an enclosed bay in the far south of the Island. Dougie was all up for another showing in Cinema Swiftwing but was told that since he'd been asleep for 2 hours and it was 10pm we were all off to bed!!
 
For our last day we hired a car to do a tour of the island. We were heading for Annadale waterfalls and the Grand Etang park but due to a lack of signposts and a somewhat inaccurate map we missed the falls and found ourselves 50 yards from Grand Etang Lake asking directions to it! Lunch at the lake shrouded in cloud and actually feeling chilly for the first time since we've been here. It's amazing how quickly the climate changes, given that we'd left scorching heat at the beach, but at this stage we'd climbed a steep windy road through the rainforest and were at a height of 1910ft. We then set off in search of the abandoned Pearls Airport, which we think we glimpsed through the trees but again the map didn't exactly lead us to it-I expect Bev, Dougie and John will explore all these things in the weeks to come. Next stop was The Grenada Chocolate Factory which the guide book said you could see round for free but once we got there the young lads we met when we got there said this wasn't possible, however bit of eyelash fluttering got us some free samples!! They directed us towards the Belmont Estate where we had a tour of the cocoa bean processing plant. We were showed the farmers bringing in the cocoa beans and having them weighed ( we were fortunate enough to be there on the day this happens), then the beans being fermented, which takes 7-9 days. The beans are then dried on huge trays on wheels which get wheeled out into the sun and are 'walked' by the workers to turn and separate them. The drying takes a further week, then the beans are smoothed, this is done by machine now but it used to be done manually-the workers 'danced' the beans in a large copper container. We were also shown a video detailing how the beans are processed into chocolate and given tasters of cocoa tea and chocolate! On the same estate we saw some of the locals milking goats too. We then took the coast road back to Prickly Bay. A thoroughly enjoyable day despite missing some of the things we were aiming to see! Dinner out at the marina pizzeria and then back for our last night on Swiftwing! sob!
 
Sorry the blog is so long this time but we've been a bit tardy at updating it! Normal service should resume should resume soon!
 
Helen, Elissa, Kat and Heather (Dougie, Bev and John)