Varnishing in Saint Martin. N 18.02:95  W 63.05:84

We arrived in Saint Martin about two days ago after a brisk sail from Saint Barts, with only our mizzen and a full headsail. We anchored in Simpson Bay and headed for the usual customs, joy of joys, and a very chatty girl who couldn’t have been nicer. In Simpson bay there is a bridge that allows you to enter Simpson Bay Lagoon which is a 12 square mile salt pond. Unfortunately it costs $30 to go through the bridge and a further $30 to come back out. We decided that this was a little too expensive as we would be leaving in a few days after visiting what is reputed to be the cheapest chandlers in the Caribbean. We have been to every Chandlers since leaving the UK and now feel that we could write a guide book. Well, we spent a very rolly night with banging and sloshing that reminded me of our Atlantic crossing.

At 7.30am there is a cruisers broadcast which gives you weather and announcements. A German couple were selling the cruising guides to the Intercostal Waterway in America.  It didn’t take us long to radio them up and discuss a price. As all you sailors know, charts and pilot books cost a fortune. The one book we had looked at in Antigua was $80! Anyway, we met the couple who couldn’t have been nicer and saved ourselves a lot of money, and as luck would have it the neighbouring boat was selling charts and pilot books of the Bahamas so we clinched our second deal of the morning!

The third good thing to happen to us was that they told us that if we enter by the French side, we don’t have to pay to go through the French bridge and don’t pay on departure. They don’t tell you that in the guide! We weighed anchor and motored the 8 miles to the other side of the island through big seas and lots of rain to enter the Lagoon which is calm, with flat water. (Hurrah) We then spent our calmest night at anchor since we launched in Grenada.

The lagoon must have 60 superyachts moored inside all waiting to be chartered. Due to the present financial crisis there are few takers at between $200,000 and $400,000 a week and at $1000 a week to keep your yacht here, before you even pay the crew; not a very good investment, maybe now is the time to buy a superyacht cheap! Apparently two were repossessed here last week!

Saint Martin is an odd Island in that the Northern part is French and the Southern part is Dutch. It is said that the French and Dutch were so civilized that rather than fight over the island, they had a Frenchman armed with a bottle of wine walk in one direction and a Dutchman equipped with a flask of gin take the other. Where they met became the boundary, and the French ended up with a bit more because the gin was stronger than the wine

Because it is such a nice spot we have decided to stay a few days and start the varnishing, fit a black water tank (required for the Intercoastal Waterway) and do some general maintenance. The other advantage is that this morning, when Duggie came back from the French customs he had some pan’o‘chocolate as a wee treat, Yum!

The town at the northern end of the lagoon is little Paris with nicely paved streets and chic boutiques. Duggie says that the streets smell of ladies perfume and the French people there are very stylish and elegant. The town at the south side of the lagoon is Dutch but is called, Little America. There could hardly be a bigger contrast. On stepping out of Immigration we felt that we had instantly been transferred to downtown Yaaaallllsville. The vehicles, buildings and the billboard lined roadway with no kerb (nobody walks in America) were straight out of Americana, as were the motorists and bandana and tattoo festooned Harley riders who make Duggie look anorexic.  Sounds like a nightmare but it was really nice to have cheap American mainland prices and good, smiling service with of course, “ yalll have a nice day now honeeee” At the sailing club, Duggie paid for our lunch in Euros and got his change in US dollars.

I’d better go now as I’m going to make grapefruit, lemon and ginger marmalade to use up some of our stock of fruit.

The Dutch entrance into Simpson Lagoon.

Anyone fancy chartering a Superyacht?

Inside the lagoon. We are anchored below the hill.

Superyacht squeezing through the fifty six foot wide bridge. Skipper is conning from the side of the bridge on remote controls (pictured).

Approaching the French entrance to the lagoon.Superyacht Swiftwing about to squeeze through. Being conned by the fat bloke at the back!

Superyacht parking lot. We counted over 60 and they should all be out on charter at this time of the year.