For the next day’s exploration we decided to stay at lower level and drive around the north side of the island and hopefully to visit a wine cellar. The most enduring impression is of flowers growing apparently wild all over, ones that like hot and dry in the SE and more luxuriant ones on the north coast.

 

 

We found vineyards and a wine cellar owned by Blandy’s and stopped to taste (and buy) some real Malmsey and Madeira.

 

After that we stopped for lunch in a small cafe in the small village of Ponta Delgada on the north coast. The bar was full of the local policemen drinking aperitifs so we hoped this one might be more genuine than the one in Funchal of evil memory, and it was good (and about 1/3 the price) for an excellent meal. The only thing worth passing on is that it seems that all Portuguese meals have to be served with multiple carbohydrates: this one came with roast potatoes, chips, rice, corn fritters and bread. And garlic bread (bolo de caco) as the starter.

 

Roads are generally very good, but far from tourist spots they can get a bit more challenging! Having reached San Vincente near the end of the road on the north coast we then decided to drive right through the highest mountain, through, ie via tunnel, rather than over as it was raining quite hard and so no views were likely to be had from the top. At the south coast a bit west of Funchal it was completely different, with sunshine and tourists sitting outside cafés.

 

The terraces above the small fishing village of Camara de Lobos are all banana plantation: such a contrast to 15 miles north.

 

We next decided to revisit Funchal, but to go to the famous Jardim Botanico which is high above the town – one can take a cable-car from near the sea-front but we drove up and down narrow streets which was probably as much fun.

 

An enormous maze of formal and informal gardens and arboretums; entrancing to wander in but very little was labelled or explained, so one doesn’t learn vey much. Other than what a lovely climate Madeira has!