Rum and the Cold War
Irie
Tue 3 Feb 2009 19:50
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Position 12 36.189N 061 27.038W
Chatham Bay, Union Island
Tuesday 3rd February
We've now had Jane and Jem aboard for four nights,
and found our way up to Chatham Bay via
Cariacou. Previously, on Grenada, the car trip moved
on from the delights of the chocolate factory, to the temptations and
perils of the St Antoine rum distillery. This is even more remarkable than
the one seen on Martinique a couple of years ago. Here in Grenada, none of
the processes have changed in 250 years. The vats, stills, water driven cane
crusher and the boiling rooms are original - only a few plastic pipes give any
clue that we are in the 21st century. The initial boilers are heated by fires
fuelled with dry crushed cane, and the copper stills are fired by wood
collected from the hills. The whole thing is unbelievably crude and very hit and
miss. The product is branded Rivers, rolling in at 78% alcohol or 150% proof,
and it can't be exported as it's too volatile. It burns like firewater,
evaporating on the lips, and has a flovour best described as disinctive -
no wonder some of the aged locals seem well preserved, if you pass the Rivers
test, you'll survive anything. Then homewards, stopping only to take in the old
Pearls airport. This is a bizarre little footnote to the Cold War, as it was
abandoned in 1984 when the current airport opened , financed and built with
help from Cuba. The runway is intact, with faded white paint outlining the
thresholds, and there's an ageing abandoned Russian passenger
pane alongside a small Cuban freighter. Even the tiny duty free building
survives, still boasting French perfume and liqueurs, though the only contents
are a couple of sprouting bushes and a carpet of leaves. The route home took us
back through Grenville and down the rough eastern Atlantic coast before turning
west to Prickly Bay. A great day out on a very pleasant
island.
Our guests moved down from their appartment on
Friday. We picked them up in the pouring
rain, and it continued to belt all day, the only relief ocuring at Happy Hour
when we made a beeline for the Prickly Bay bar for a couple of cheap beers. On
Saturday the weather cleared and the wind dropped a little, so we set out for
Cariacou. After a little excitement due to a jam in the main,we had a
great motor sail up the west coast, and a cracking sail from the top of
Grenada past Diamond rock and then to Tyrell Bay. The fishing line was
deployed, but this time, no wahoo. Tyrell was relatively empty of boats, so
after a quietish night we made the ritual pilgramage to Paradise beach and the
Hardwood Bar It was just as beautiful as ever, though Jan managed a first wth a
rather nasty jab from a jellyfish. The upside of this was a trip to the
Hardwood Bar for vinegar - outer healing, and then a small tincture and
lunch - inner peace. Monday we made off to Hillsborough to clear out and buy
some provisions, before sailing the five or so miles to Clifton on Union
Island. The wind was up around 25 knots, but the day shone and the spray
sparkled. After clearing in, we set off round to Chatham, anchored up and were
immediately greeted like long lost chums by Seckie and Vanessa 'Hey,
Irie, great to see you, come and see our new restaurant'. So we did, with a
complimentary rum punch and then toes buried in the sand as the sun dropped, and
a soft darkness stole over Chatham - excellent.
Nearly ready for ice and coke
 Minor techical delays
 More sundowners
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