Down to Les Saintes
Irie
Fri 29 Feb 2008 01:29
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Position 15 52.02N 61 35.21W Bourg Les Saintes, Terre D'en
Haut, Iles Les Saintes, Off Guadaloupe
Thursday 28th Feb
The run to Guadaloupe on Sunday was a little lumpy, but by
midday we were starting to close the northern tip of the island, and within an
hour were sheltered from the swell.We sailed past Deshaies, where we had spent
an enjoyable couple of nights with Peter and Diane last year, this time pressing
on down the coast to Cap Malendure, just near Pigeon Island, and the site of the
Jaques Cousteau Underwater National Park. . It's supposed to be a fabulous place
to dive, though a little deep for good snorkelling. We're starting to come
across more English boats, most of them heading north, and a number carrying ARC
2007 flags, this years contingent on the move. Monday morning we're heading
south again, running down the island's coast before crossing the eight or so
miles of open sea to the little group of islands called Les Saintes. The
Guadaloupe coastline looks fairly prosperous and developed, but behind the coast
road, the land rises steeply to dense wooded slopes that soar into mist
topped mountains. Brooding but unseen is the highest of them all, Mount
Soufriere that tops out around 4,800 feet.
Terre D'en Haut is the largest of Les Saintes
and serves as a bustling French holiday spot. It was too dry for sugar
in colonial days, but teems with fish, so was settled by Breton fisherman and
still has strong links with Brittany, both through the people and also the
graceful style of the traditional fishing boats. The tiny town is Borg Les
Saintes, an extremely pretty curve of bright red roofs, colour
washed buildings and a clutch of little bars and cafes. There's a backdrop
of small scrub covered peaks, with Fort Napoleon siting solidly up 400 feet
towards the north, and Le Chameau to the west, a 1000 foot hump
with a lookout tower perched atop. Ashore the streets bustle and ring to the
chatter of French from the mix of locals and tourists. Many of the
latter take ferries for the day from Guadaloupe, and there's an eerie peace
before the boats arrive and after they depart in the afternoon. There are
hardly any cars, but fleets of buzzing scooters, and everywhere the aroma
of French bread and cheese, croissants and coffee.
The weather's a bit mixed with sunny periods broken by
rainy interludes and squally winds, one period of sharp gusts causing half a
dozen boats to drag though the anchorage, with consequent excitement and
activity till all were settled again . Irie has had a tidy up, and then
we've embarked on a series of hot scrambles up and down the various hills
following footpaths that invariably lead to secluded coves annd sandy beaches.
Today has seen peak actvity with an hour and a half hike up and down Le
Chameau, followed by a great snorkell off Ile Cabrit or
Goat Island. The water is very clear, with boulders and coral heads swarming
with fish, star turns being a couple of colourful Moray eels, one a
striking yellow, and the other a vivid black and white, plus a large plaice-like
flatfish with an irridescent shiny blue fringe. The current plan is to head on
south Sunday, and a couple more days here will be perfect - it has a touch
of St Mawes about it, but rather warmer and with French
cuisine.
Spot the Irie competition - looking down on the
anchorage
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