Story - Menorca 1

Kalandia Web Diary
Bill Peach
Mon 31 Aug 2009 20:50

Early impressions of Menorca – hippy, long family holidays, British (whereas Majorca seemed to have more Germans), cosmopolitan.  Chatting to a shop owner we were told that many British families have homes here to let and to use but that this year many British people on whom the economy relies did not come.  Many Barcelona families spend the whole summer here with the bread winner commuting the 30 minute flight.   Menorca is Catalan like Majorca although we didn’t hear the language as often as in Majorca – perhaps a sign that the population in summer overwhelms the locals and that many of the current inhabitants are mainland immigrants.

Our first landing was at a place called Puerto Tamarind on the extreme south east corner which has grown into a resort but you can’t see or hear anything from the sea.  We first found ourselves a deserted cala (cove) which seemed to do the job and took the dinghy to the puerto which had shops and things we needed.  The approach is through a canal (presumably purposely cut into the rock) which led into a lagoon.  It was surreal.  As we passed under the bridge we saw people passing to and fro over it.  Then we came out into an unexpected place all lit up with neon lights and blaring music.  Restaurants and bars and amusements surrounded the lagoon which was full of motor boats.  The visitors were mainly Brits but Spanish seemed to like it too.   We bought provisions from a shop that could have been our local convenience store, avoided the restaurants that advertised all day English breakfasts and found a restaurant that served fish.  I had salmonettas (which turned out to be red mullet not salmon steaks).  We found our way back in the dark and next morning sailed and motored east along the south coast as the wind was very slight. 

We chose Cala Covas as our next stop which was very busy, again.  The cove was surrounded by cave dwellings.  Some  of them had been used as such quite recently and had doors and shuttered windows (see pictures).  It looked like a couple of them were presently being used.

Following day we headed for Mahon (Maó - pronounced as in Tse Teung).  It is the capital city since the British occupation in the 19th century which moved it from Cuitadella on the west coast as it has a big and strategic harbour.  I was quite enchanted by our berth which was stern to, more or less on the pavement of the promenade, opposite cafès and boutiques.  We were less enchanted with the cost which I had misheard - it was not 2.48 Euros (plus some taxes) per metre but 2.48 Euros per square metre which at 17 x 4.5 equals quite a lot.  Stayed three nights, washed the boat down, used the electricity enjoyed the scenery and rubbed hulls with super (or were they ultra?)yachts.  We then moved to Marina Menorca which is far cheaper than Sunseeker’s Marina Estrella.  To be honest even though it is right at the end of the harbour and perhaps not so trendy it is in fact much quieter and no further to walk up to the old city.  It is also more secure and has the necessary electricity and water.  However it is still over £100 per night.  Never complain about UK berthing fees again.

Interesting perhaps for some, we see a lot of flags of convenience which are British.  The inter island ferry flies a British flag and is registered in London for some reason, as are some of the posh boats whose occupants are not British.   I wonder what the advantage is?

Leila and Tom have joined us.  It was lovely to see them and we have enjoyed a couple of trips round the corner for some snorkelling.  Bill is getting his outboard motor seen to again for fine tuning so we have not gone as far round as planned.  We will spend tonight at Cala Grau then return to Marina Menorca for a couple of nights to have a new belt drive fitted and see me off to the airport.  Work calls, and also the cat which is kindly being visited by Tom’s parents and Leila’s dad for the few days we have all been here together.  I leave Bill in the capable hands of Leila and Tom – at least he knows he will get fed. There will also be some fabulous photos as Tom and his super duper camera are proving to be very talented.

Finally a word about the weather – we have had some! Yesterday we stayed in port because of the impending Tramontana.  I realise now why they name their winds (Levante, Mistral, Tramontana, Sirocco etc.) and that is because unlike in UK, they are an infrequent occurrence and worthy of note and are directional.  As far as I can see all, apart from the Libeccio, originate from a land source which perhaps also makes them more predictable (Mrs Ward’s children may like to look up which wind comes from which direction). Havng said that,  they can blow hard and the Tramontana can sometimes rear up suddenly and blow gale force.  However that is mainly in winter and really it was no big deal today although we have had a sea swell and it is a grey one.  Tomorrow almost certainly will be sunny and hot again.

 

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