Story - Mallorca

Kalandia Web Diary
Bill Peach
Sun 23 Aug 2009 16:10

Richard Clark’s family came on board in Alicante.  After a couple of days they sailed to Formentera.  My regular telephone updates from Bill informed me that the marinas were hugely expensive (hundreds of pounds) and that anchoring was what you did in the Balearics – along with so many others that the anchorages were very crowded.  I was also informed that nudity was the ‘uniform’ for many of the crew on the other boats.  It turned out to be just so and among all nationalities and families as well as couples.  A 10 year old, or thereabouts, English boy and his Dad were swimming back to their boat and the conversation between father and son was about the sights they had seen and the relative merits or otherwise, of the hirsute or otherwise, people they had seen.  The boy seemed to know that many of them were Brazilian!  I don’t know how he knew that, clever boy. Richard and Bill coined the phrase ‘pervoculers’ for the optical instrument so busily employed – to check the anchorages mainly, I am assured.   Sorry Mrs Ward’s geography class, perhaps this can be part of culture and humanities?

Unfortunately the item to repair the outboard motor had not arrived in time for Gibraltar but luckily Paul James and Tracy were taking over from the Clarks in Ibiza and brought it over with them.  This meant a couple more days in Ibiza whilst Raphael Torres a local Yamaha dealer fixed it.  This was no hard shakes for Bill because it meant he could visit Villa Mercedes once again with Paul and Tracy – a lovely place apparently, with views, loungers and a hippy decor which creates a really chillaxed (a term I learned from Tracy) atmosphere.

There was a thunderstorm  for the crossing to Mallorca which cleared in time for Tracy to experience how lovely it is to come into somewhere on a sunny evening.  Needless to say, Palma marinas were out of the question, costing hundreds of pounds a night (apart from the harbour authority one).  A little further towards the west coast and a slightly cheaper (Euros 110) was found where Bill could wash the boat down but was still close enough to Palma for me to come aboard.

The bus ride was about 40 minutes and took in Palma Nova and Magaluf.  Enough said! But it wasn’t far before everything changed and we arrived in Port Adrianohome to Sunseekers Germany. This will probably be the only time we will afford to come here.  Phillipe Starke has got a 25 year lease to develop the place to take ultra yachts (oh yes, bigger than super yachts).  I am sure it will look great apart from a sodding huge, grey concrete wall which is not on any chart yet.  The work is underway and we did take advantage of a very lovely dinner, courtesy of Paul and Tracy, in one of the smart restaurants. 

We had spotted preparations for a fiesta on getting off the bus and went up there after dinner.  How surprised I was to hear music so much like Scottish country dancing (bagpipe and all) and the group dances were very Gay Gordon too!  The band would call the next song and everyone seemed to know the dance. I didn’t know that Mallorca is actually Catalan.  The common language is a dialect of Catalan.  The culture is very different from the Spain you normally think of.  There were no other foreigners in sight at the fiesta.  What a lot people miss!!

Next day we sailed round the corner with the intention of Isla Dragonera, but it was too crowded so we went to San Telmo and anchored.  A dinghy came up to say hello and they were Richard and Rowan with their guest Chris.  They are having a Discovery 67 built (the fourth in the series).   Richard was a previous owner of an early 55.  What a small world!  The visit was cut short by the ‘fun police’ coming up to tell us we could not anchor other than in patches of clear sand.  There is an attempt being made to protect (quite rightly, despite my quip) the posedonia – a weed which is under threat (but which everyone is anchoring in all the time further north).  We tried Dragonera again – no luck – tried somewhere else – no luck – and went back to San Telmo by which time the day trippers had gone back (to Palma we suppose) and we were directed to a buoy.

The next day we had a brilliant sail to Port Soller (Soy-er).  We stopped on the way in a cove where I got stung by a pink jelly fish and where we dinghied to the next cove to have a wonderful plate of mixed fish for lunch.  The next cove had on its south side a cliff composed of lava flow (see picture).  What is this rock called children?  The north side (it isn’t a very large cove) looked as if a giant had sledge hammered a different kind of rocky promontory into boulders.  It doesn't look that old in geological terms.  We are on the edge of a seismic zone after all, being not very far from Etna.  More jelly fish floated by so I quickly snorkelled away from the base of the old lava flow no doubt a cavernous hideaway for some sea creatures.  By the way, there is disappointingly little sea life to be seen on the sea bed and only two kinds of fish.  Even out at sea we haven’t caught anything.

Soller is a beautiful little leisure port.  It is a gorgeous bay (see pictures).  There is a wooden open sided tram which runs regularly to the town of Soller slightly inland.  By the way, the west coast of Mallorca is mountainous down to the sea. Spectacular scenery which we explored further with a trip up the coast to Torrente de Pareis, a big cove with a gorge leading down to it (see pictures).  We also took a wooden open train through the mountains to Palma, where Paul and Tracey caught the plane back home.  We enjoyed their company very much.

My jelly fish sting has reared up into a livid red weal again.  It was beginning to fade.  All I can think is that it reacted to some mosquito repellent I sprayed onto the area – but that was a good 7 days or so ago. The Ship Captain’s Medical Guide is singularly unhelpful in this matter, and if any of you think you know better, NO you do not urinate on the sting, so the posters in the port authority office which described 6 types of jelly fish to be encountered informed us, nor do you put vinegar or bathe it in fresh water, just salt water.

Bill and I are on our own for a while until Leila and her boyfriend Tom join us next week.  In the mean time we have sailed up to the north of Mallorca where we are bobbling in a cove, quiet now that the locals have all gone back to wherever it is they keep their boats – I think in this instance it is Pollenca.  On Sunday we will cross over to Menorca and gently meander to the east where Mahon airport it situated and where Leila and Tom will join us (no more nude sailing after that – can’t completely get into the culture). 

JPEG image

JPEG image

JPEG image

JPEG image

JPEG image

JPEG image