16.31S 151.44W  Thursday 22nd May 2008  A 30 knot squall was forecast for the weekend just passed (which materialised with some force)  so we hung on to our mooring buoy for an extra day before motoring all around Tahaa again – Margaret on Our Island said she would have flown from Australia to snorkel down the tide of the coral gardens in the pass beside Tautau Islet so it sounded like a ‘must do’ and my goodness it rated as one of the best experiences ever ever!  You walk along the edge of the motu entering the water between the islands where the current whisks you through shallow tunnels filled with the most amazing coral gardens I have ever seen – and the fish!  Moray eels, scorpion fish, angels and myriads of others – huge pink wavering anemones and even fan corals. 

We tried hard to find the vanilla plantations too but failed – Lousil had regaled us with information – how only one type of bee pollinates the flower - but this type doesn’t survive here so thousands have to be pollinated by hand and as each flower only blooms for 24 hours timing is paramount!  Apparently there are vanilla wars going on in these islands with Polynesians outbidding each other to try and monopolise the lucrative market (often on the church steps on a Sunday!) 

We spotted Blue Raven at anchor – recently departed from the Rally – but still in hearts - so we stopped by for a gin and tonic as a small squall blew over Anahi….

Our personal pot of gold!........

And then the sun went down…….

And what a sunset it was……….

Anyhow, Bora Bora!  We sailed here yesterday – first going through a very frisky pass

Waves in the pass

And legendary Bora Bora just 20 miles away

But what a disappointment!  Yes, it has a stunning volcanic peaks and an extensive lagoon but this poor island has been hijacked and is a victim of its own success - it is in my opinion now sad, over developed and over rated.  Numerous cruise ships are constantly regurgitating their passengers onto the shore so you can’t even hire a car by the day – only for two hours (to accommodate the main tourist time spans) for 11,000 PF (15,000 PF is 100 Pounds) The top resorts have colonised the best beaches and the restaurants, in the main, although serving excellent international cuisine certainly know how to charge for it.  The jewel in the crown here is Bloody Mary’s Restaurant – efficiently run, hot on service, high on atmosphere and spot on with their culinary delights.  The sand under your feet, the lighting, the fish and meat of the day - superb value for money – we loved it.

We are slightly compromised as more bad weather is predicted so it’s safe for us to be here in the lagoon albeit anchored in 25 meters of water; the ARC have postponed their departure from Bora Bora to Rarotonga in the Southern Cook Islands (which is also our next suggested destination) where the anchorages are very deep and the buoys are limited!  So we shall anchor up, enjoy the safety of the bay and the honesty of the locals for a few days and get on with general maintenance.

Maltese Falcon slipping into her anchorage beside us last night

But away again by first light…….

Busy Bora Bora high street……… a world apart from the Marquesas and Tuamotus….