Wednesday 2^nd April 2008 -  It’s always the same – you arrive exhausted with a vivid imagination of all the days and ways you are going to relax before the next leg – and what happens?  Your feet don’t touch the ground!  We arrived on 28^th March at 17.30 and frankly couldn’t wait to get ashore and even though we arrived at sunset and it was dark by the time we clambered out of the dinghy you still get an immediate feel for a place. 

First views of Nuka Hiva

Sunset just as we turned into the bay…….

Without getting too political, from what I understand the Marquesas are ‘useful’ to the French government for a number of reasons relating to their nuclear testing program.  I believe that there is financial and educational assistance on offer but contrary to what the results of this might be in some cultures, here the people are polite, industrious and seemingly happy.  It is a lush island abundant with fruit trees, wild pig and goat, fish and chickens.  There are currently only two eating establishments – the hotel and the local steakhouse/pizza restaurant…. Run by Romeo – he/she dresses as a woman and rumour has it that due to the warring history of the peoples in some of the Pacific Islands the first born male was always disguised as a woman so that he would be saved from going to war and would therefore be able to carry on the bloodline of the family.  Whether there is any need to save the blood line today in these peaceful times – who knows!!

Romeo on the left with waitress and Tony BWR……..

We were worried about the possibility of the fish poisoning we had been warned about until Tony pointed out the improbability of the imported sole having ever been anywhere near a reef!!  Yes, some things are expensive 700 Pacific Franks for a can of beer which is equal to about five quid whilst a steak sets you back a mere 2200 PF but look where we are – nearly everything is imported and we are in the middle of nowhere!  There are some enterprising locals with caravans beside the road offering their home grown fruit and vegetables for sale and cooking steak on homemade barbeques which is more reasonable but somehow lacking the social ambiance we so look forward to.

Modern day Kon Tiki – not sure of her history……….

Shopping – a man’s work is never done………

Taiohae Bay – Nuka Hiva

Anyhow, the filet mignon with French frits on our first night - washed down with a vodka and tonic followed by French wine – was to die for – blow the expense!  The following morning Zippy delivered fresh hot French bread for our breakfast and then it was up and off to the Gendarmerie to clear customs at 10.00am (I am ashamed to say we cried off the 4.00am fruit and vegetable market!) and so instead to the two supermarkets to try and buy provisions – you can get just about everything here at a price but not all at once!  One day the word goes around – onions are in – the next day someone might spot eggs – and buy as many as they can carry for those they know are still looking – bacon! Just four packs left – tomatoes, lettuce, water melon, the largest, sweetest grapefruits you ever did see, bread fruit, aubergines, leeks but you have to be alert!! 

The second night there was a welcome festival with dancers, tables of fruit, lei flowers being hung around necks – beautiful fragrant smell of frangipani (lots of creepy crawlies wandering out of the foliage though!) – an address from the Mayor and generally lots of bonhomie…… Interesting dance routine they have here – pretty aggressive stuff – most of it depicting the cull of the pig – and the human I suspect in fairly recent times – the main lyrics sung loudly and with much stamping and stomping sound awfully similar to ‘fucky fucky fucky – hoo hoo hoo – fucky fucky fucky – hoo hoo hoo’ – repeated for rather a long time - something got lost in the translation I fear!  Anyhow, onward and upward – a  jolly good night was had by all and some carried on into the early hours of the morning.

Male dancers…….

Day three, another early start with a briefing from Tony (BWR) on the joys of all the reefs we might have a close encounter with between here and the next the Rally support in Tahiti.  It put the wind up most of us and we all came away clutching such tombs as ‘Charlie’s Charts’.  The fact that the poor man is deceased and his ancient wife has been carrying on the mantel and updating for years did nothing for our confidence – especially when near the beginning there is a bold print disclaimer for anyone actually using any of the detailed drawings and charts as a navigational tool!!

We determined to put our mast steps up to the first spreaders and there was a general consensus that there might be some safety in numbers?  You go first springs to mind!

The briefing was soon followed by a traditional pig roast party (organised by ‘Rose’ who has set up the Nuka Hiva Yacht Club) which involved a lot of banana leaves and sacking packed around hot volcanic rocks being buried in the ground with piggie.  Delicious!  The dancers were back – more hoo hoo hoo etc etc – Dorothy and Peter off Neva sang another Ditty – this time to the well known tune of ‘Help I need somebody – Help’…. And the third day in Polynesia slipped away.  We had been warned that the locals were short of dingy ropes and shoes in particular and sure enough the nicest ones have gone missing – they have lots of choice with BWR and ARC here at the same time and obviously feel it is not worth the effort to go for second best!  Paul’s only decent pair of shoes have long gone – stolen off the quay in Nelson’s Dockyard!

Marquesas pork barbeque…..

Fourth morning – up even earlier to re fuel as the ARC are here now and although we have been told verbally that there is a limited allocation each of 300 litres the French are on strike and it may be hard to get more later on.  First we hoiked all our twelve full jerry cans onto the deck and filtered each one into our empty tanks (horrible messy job as it gets everywhere). The Galapagos diesel was filthy, dark brown, muck - full of water and bugs so it took ages to filter.  Then we loaded up the cans onto the dinghy to go to the fuel dock which is on a monstrous concrete wall used mainly by industrial fishing trawlers.  Quite a tricky manoeuvre for us to go alongside with the swell – tie onto the metal ladder – climb up up up to the top with each can in one hand and gripping on with the other - whilst the one left in the boat gets soaked to the skin with sprays of water shooting out from under the concrete structure!  Lovely!  And then of course the twelve full cans need to be lowered into the small wallowing boat and then the rudder gets stuck in the go ahead position and we’re all slithering about on top of the grubby cans………you’ve got the picture…….. anyhow, job done – back into town to see if the onions or eggs are in today – yes hoorah! 

11.00am nearly all the Rally boats headed off for Daniel’s Bay – this is a well known cruisers’ paradise where ‘Daniel’ used to live in a little wooden shack and greeted his visitors with glee and fresh water from the mountains – but the Survivor programme either evicted him or paid him off and he moved into the town where he died last year.  What a wonderful place, surrounded by spires, sheltered from the swells, fruit trees growing right up to the water’s edge, white sand and a seemingly manicured lawn.  We had all brought barbeques or picnics and refreshments and the cricket bat I had fought so hard to bring with us (in our limited space) came into its own!  Two teams, one English (headed up by Team Captain Bennett) and one International including the Scottish, Welsh, German, Dutch, French, American and Canadian contingent were picked and the ensuing match with all the ‘crowd’ support and cheering and laughter really symbolised the whole meaning of this Rally.  (Made even more fun as we won!!)  Exhausted, some of us still managed a reef avoidance meeting on Heidenskip before collapsing into bed.

Blue Water Rally yachts already at anchor – Daniel’s Bay

Hakuna Matata arriving in Daniel’s Bay 

The mast steps were pot riveted in this morning (with both Bennett and Paul smacking their thumbs instead of the rivet) Elena off Hakuna Matata came over and she painted a card for her parents 15^th wedding anniversary tomorrow whilst around twenty people climbed up to one of the highest waterfalls along the river before enjoying another pig roast.  I stupidly tried to put 52 beers into the fridge at the same time and damaged my back so arduous walking trips are off the agenda for the time being.

Tonight we are back at our original anchorage in Taiohae Bay,  and although we had a table booked for two tonight we are so tired we have cried off.

Another early start tomorrow – a  4 x 4 tour of the island which includes all the rather macabre cannibal history and sacrificial sites……….

Still got the filthy waterline to tackle – goose barnacles multiplying by the day – the oil seal on the gear box still outstanding – the shaft seal still leaking water – a water leak into the gas locker – that’s enough to be getting on with……….