Monday 21^st April – Saturday 26^th April -  The Society archipelago extends for a distance of 400 nautical miles and forms the most populous region – around 160,000 inhabitants out of 220,000.  Comprised mostly of high islands, volcanic in origin, most are surrounded by navigable lagoons.   Tahiti’s original name was O Taiti.  After the arrival of the first European navigators – Wallis, Bougainville and Cook – the first European settlers were English Protestant missionaries in 1797.   Over 120,000 people now live in Papeete, the capital of Tahiti, and the neighbouring communes and it is the administrative and economic centre of all communications with the outside world.  We first sighted Papeete at 1.00am on the morning of 21^st April – bright lights lit up the horizon.  Originally a lagoon protected by a barrier reef – today it is a modern port, accessible by a pass with easy access.

 

A very choppy sea state on our crossing made me feel sick for the first time in months.  The wind was strong most of the way gusting to 25 knots so we were well reefed in and very pleased to arrive.

 

 

First glimpse of Tahiti – early morning……. 

 

 

 

Two weeks prior to our arrival floating pontoons were laid out for our (and others in the future) convenience and safety which has made the whole situation here much more tenable.  The main dual carriage way literally runs along beside the quay and although noisy, with the rush hour traffic whizzing through, makes a welcome change to be right in the heart of a thriving town with all the inherent hustle and bustle.  Apart from Tapestry I think we are all here now, and ‘dressed all over’ with hundreds of flags fluttering we make a pretty picture.

 

The new floating pontoons – next to the dual carriageway……..

 

 

And Rally yachts ‘dressed all over’ – Anahi second from the left…

 

 

 

Customs clearance was quick and perfunctory so we set off to the industrial estate and chandlers to try and locate the elusive oil seal we still require……with no luck.

 

 

Boy shopping paradise…….. 

 

The 140 US$ gasket set which included just one oil seal that we bought in Galapagos for the gear box has turned out to be the wrong one!  We have just received four more seals from ASAP Supplies in the U.K. – with a delivery cost of another 150 US$ - which are also the wrong ones.  We have now discovered that although we gave the correct Hand Book serial numbers, in actual fact we have an earlier commercial type gear box…. Now we have ordered the correct seals from America to arrive within four days – another 230 US$ including delivery.  This has to be the most expensive oil seal in the world (the normal unit cost is around 30 US$!!). 

 

The Tahitian Tourist Board and government ministers have obviously gone to a huge effort to welcome us and we have enjoyed two days of non stop entertainment. On Tuesday we had outrigger canoe races from the jetty – each canoe ‘manned’ by three BWR participants and three Tahitian ladies.  We all put our heart into rowing the considerable lap – only to be told this was the practice run – and round we all went again! Beers, soft drinks and a wonderful buffet of fresh sliced fruits were on offer.

We were further entertained by a great dance troupe from the famous Gabby Lou Dance Academy

 

 

The dancers were aged from just ten years old and were brilliant

 

 

And very beautiful…….

 

 

Tahitian Hornblower!

 

 

Paul in outrigger canoe winning his heat…..

 

 

And sailing in the outrigger sailboat with Peter from Moonshadow……..

 

We also took our ‘bushel’ of pearls to a jewellers to be made into necklaces, pendants, rings, and earrings which was great fun – more so because we had actually winkled each little pearl out of an oyster!

 

 

Girl shopping paradise…….

 

 

With Wendy and Maryanne getting our pearls set………..

 

I believe the ‘roach coaches’ as they are commonly called, where we ate in the evenings are unique to Papeete – a dozen or more mobile kitchens producing a huge variety of food including Italian, Chinese and Japanese cuisine – we even found a spit roast calf being cooked over an open air barbecue which was delicious. You can pick and choose from different ‘roaches’ having a starter from one, the main from another and finish off with a crepe from a third!  No alcohol is sold but you can discreetly take your own. Great idea – cheap, cheerful and sociable. 

 

We had a courtesy air conditioned bus laid on, again a gift from the Tourist Board,  which drove around island showing us famous Tahiti landmarks and included a visit to the Paul Gaugan museum and the main culture museum - it was fascinating to learn more of the history of these windward isles.

 

Famous lighthouse…..

 

 

Tiki near a Tahitian sacrificial site – apparently they sacrificed humans but didn’t eat them!

 

All the stories we heard about the cost of living and particularly food and drinks here are true – the supermarkets are huge and as well stocked as those in Europe but on sale for astronomical prices!  A simple lettuce – 10 Euros for instance!  But there were a few things we needed, and with the prospect of even higher prices in Moorea, we probably all succumbed to some purchases.  The laundry was a surprise too – two normal laundry bags of washing – 150 Euros!! Anyway, after our weeks off the beaten track, we have had fun and enjoyed the experience, staggering prices and all, as part of the voyage’s rich pattern……..apparently the economy is on its knees here as each new government overthrows the next with rapid regularity – usually under 60 days.  All imports are taxed heavily, tourism is the main source of income together with the black pearl market but we could see their proud fleet of fishing vessels all tied up in the port.  There is little commercial fishing left – the seas have been raped.

 

 

Fishing fleet all abandoned……

 

With so much entertainment laid on, socialising and shopping we found it hard to get on with many ‘jobs’ but today, Saturday 26^th we have checked the batteries and effected an engine oil change prior to leaving for the peace and quiet of neighbouring sister island Moorea….just a three hour sail away.  But we will have to return to collect the oil seal and water maker parts when they arrive and clear customs.