BLUE WATER RALLY - FOREVER GETTING TO GALAPAGOS
00.57N 85.50W My watch! 2200 hours – evening of the 19th
February and our sixth night at sea - just missed a massive rain squall –
the only dry patch out here in the cockpit is the little curve where Bennett
sat! This journey is an incredible experience – I always thought it was
possible to go anywhere at sea with sails, an engine and enough diesel to cover
around 800 miles but none of us have experienced adverse currents quite to this
extent – yes Paul said - in the Walton backwaters if you got your tides
wrong – but this is unforgiving and unrelenting – six days and
nights non stop and with no respite in view. A few yachts who left Las Perlas
earlier than us have arrived in Galapagos but all keep warning, over the net,
of the strong adverse current right up to the finish and hence the importance
to conserve diesel. Impossible to sail a true course with the current pulling
us off to the tune of 30 degrees and if you were to stop running the engine you
would drift off back to where you came from (or worse) at about 4 knots!
Roaring along with the engine on, going in the right direction, we are lucky to
make 1 knot. We are trying to sail during the day but have the engine on
tonight and are motoring as close to our course as we can, trying to achieve at
least 2 knots. We have emptied all our jerry cans into the empty port diesel
tank and are using this but will try and conserve what is left in the starboard
tank for emergencies. I made a delicious (even if I say so myself) minestrone soup today
– chopping up the remainder of our carrots and potatoes, frying the bacon
and making crispy cheesey buns to dip in. We were replete and had all settled
down to the pattern of the day, Paul reading, Bennett trying to catch up on
sleep and me making my intricate flag when we saw the genoa sliding down quite
gracefully into the sea! The ring at the top of the sail had torn clean away
– still attached to the halyard thankfully - but stuck at the top of the
mast! We dragged the sail out of the sea and bundled it into a sail bag and
down through the front hatch into Bennett’s cabin – it was then we
realised we hadn’t closed the saloon hatch earlier and all the ‘day
bed’ bedding, upholstery, cushions etc were soaked – but no time to
sort that out as one of us had to go up the mast to retrieve the halyard so we
could attach the other genoa to it and get it operational. (This is a much
larger sail – the one we use as the other half of the Twistle and had
just got mended in I have been up the mast quite a few times and was perfectly happy to go
up again – so I donned a pair of jeans, deck shoes and gloves and stepped
into the bosun’s chair and was hauled up. We used the anchor winch to get
me up there. I was fine past the first spreaders, gripping the mast with my
knees and hanging onto ropes with one hand and the stays with the other but we
were swaying about so much in 20 knots of wind that once I got three quarters
of the way up it became really hard to grip and if I had swung out and slammed
back again with the sway of the mast I think it would have knocked me out so
down I came again – mission impossible. And then the boys set up an
ingenious loop and drew it up on another halyard and kind of lassoed the other
ring and managed to bring it down. So up went our second genoa at sunset!
Then the ‘wet’ clear up began inside………and guess
what? In the kafuffle of it all I had left Bennett’s hatch open so all
his bedding was soaked too – ugh! We call the ‘day bed’ in the saloon ‘the
pencil’ as it is so narrow (but very comfortable when you are wedged in
with the lee cloth and the only place you often manage to sleep when it is
rough) but tonight it is even slimmer as we have had to use the skinny cushions
from the cockpit! It’s raining again so I am huddled up inside the
cockpit with my huge jacket surrounding me and the computer – closing
down every ten minutes to get my night vision back to do a horizon scan with
the binoculars. Nothing has been seen for six nights running. Morning of the 20th – still 285 miles to Santa Cruz in
Galapagos – we’re covering around 60 miles a day at present - and
still only south westerlies forecast. We had the mother of all rain squalls
last night – the worst Paul and Bennett have experienced; once again I
slept through the lot! The maelstrom of wind, tide and sea state was so bad
they thought they had lost steering all together. They both stayed up all
night hand steering and trying to keep us on course. We currently have the
engine off, the sails out and the sun it trying to shine – no sail makers
in Galapagos so we are endeavouring to mend the torn genoa or we won’t
have a down wind rig for the rest of the Pacific – hard to believe at the
moment that we will ever have wind up the chuff again! |