The Big Come Down

12:27.39N 61:29.25W Friday 8th April Music finished on the nearby boat around midnight and then
for good measure they sounded their horn when leaving at 0700 hrs in the
morning. Since we were now awake we opted to make a start on today’s
journey and so by 0840 hrs we had lifted the anchor and were making our way (reluctantly)
out of Clifton and heading south west to Carriacou, which is an island just to
the north of Grenada but also part of Grenada, so we could clear through
Customs and Immigration and spend a few days there. It is only 5 miles between Union Island and Carriacou, but
we tried a bit of fishing along the way and were rewarded with a Yellow Tailed Snapper
(and very pretty it was too, as Sarah pointed out). Hillsborough is the main town on the island and it is rather
small even by standards out here, but the anchorage was large and
straightforward, although there is a big swell and consequently the only
boats here were, like us either clearing in or out of the country. The
paperwork was easy for us as Sarah had noted from the pilot book that you could
download the one page ‘check in’ form in advance and complete it
and make the required 5 copies before going ashore, so I had done this the
previous evening. Life then was very easy as the officials dealt with our case
quickly and pleasantly. Other boaters were less fortunate and were sent off to
find a photocopy machine once they had laboriously completed the forms standing
outside in the sun! As soon as this was all completed, we set off for Tyrell Bay
which is round on the western side of Carriacou and we motored round, making
our way between several islands, past a stunning quintessential Caribbean beach/desert
island – basically just a sand bar - and across some shallows
before making our way cautiously into what appears to be a large bay, but is in
fact a mass of shoals, reefs and the odd unmarked wreck. The pilot book
certainly talks this place up and we were looking forward to a few days here,
rather along the lines of our time in Chatham bay, but with the added benefit
of internet access. Sadly Tyrell Bay appears to have lost its charm and is
little more than a rather tired and run down place, with a handful of basic
restaurants, several large rusting barges and tugs (quarrying sand?) and a very
dilapidated boatyard. The internet WiFi is close to useless and the boat boys are
listless and almost disinterested. One of them, whose speciality appears to be
selling Chilean wine, spends most of the day drifting round the bay, trying to
get the outboard engine started on his boat. I suspect that we will not be staying here anything like as
long as we planned and may well head south to Grenada in the next day or so. There are a couple of things that I forgot to mention at the
time, one of which was that the large scruffy fishing boat anchored not far
from us for several days in Chatham Bay, Union Island, turned out not to be a
fishing boat at all but a Venezuelan vessel that brings fuel to Union Island. I
think the correct term is smuggle, but given that Venezuela is very much off
limits now to yachts due to the rapid expansion of piracy there, this was not
something we felt the need to find out more about, but it did explain why it
would disappear for part of each night. The other issue was the April Fool’s trick that we
fell for hook, line and sinker. Shaun Mc Mullen is a friend out here who has
been exceptionally helpful in advising us about all manner of things, but primarily
about laying the boat up in Grenada where he has personally recommended Spice Island
Marine. I made the mistake the other day of probably asking one question too
many about the way things are done when laying up in the summer as opposed to
the winter and got a very helpful email warning us in great detail about the
one big drawback at Spice Island Marine which are the Fruit bats and in
particular their poo. The email detailed the problems and various solutions (including
making a scarer from wire, silver paper, and an old anode – Sarah was
then planning the most elaborate, and artistic bird scarer) and we were
completely taken in, even to the point of asking other boaters who have laid up
there about the problem. Well done Shaun – just watch your back! On the subject of piracy, we have been very sorry to read
how Mark and Chris on Blue Magic on the current Blue Water Round the World
Rally have had to abandon their attempt to sail up into the Red Sea so close to
the end of their odyssey and Blue Magic along with all the other remaining boats
are to be loaded onto a ship and transported into the Med at no little cost.
The problem off Somalia and across the Indian ocean has now escalated well
beyond any semblance of control and all the naval warships from around the
world patrolling there are not even able to protect the merchant ships over
such a widespread and lawless area. And Happy Birthday today to our son youngest son Ewan, who
never ever reads this log!! |